This week I cleaned the DPF on my L322 TDV8 4.4

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jtq4u

Member
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39
Just contributing my experience on this forum (as I have already on the Facebook ones). Regarding giving my DPF a clean whilst still on vehicle.. in the video towards the end you can see the whole load of smoke that came out! And this was on the second clean of the week. I figured doing it twice was worth while.

https://youtu.be/rLY58HXtDNw

I also love the fact that when you tube was parsing the audio it thought the sound of the engine was music. I do have to agree on that one :)

James
2011 L322 TDV8 4.4
 
Just contributing my experience on this forum (as I have already on the Facebook ones). Regarding giving my DPF a clean whilst still on vehicle.. in the video towards the end you can see the whole load of smoke that came out! And this was on the second clean of the week. I figured doing it twice was worth while.

https://youtu.be/rLY58HXtDNw

I also love the fact that when you tube was parsing the audio it thought the sound of the engine was music. I do have to agree on that one :)

James
2011 L322 TDV8 4.4
Brilliant job, that'll inspire bods who want to have a go themselves.
Nice jumper as well😊👍
 
I don't really understand the need to do this though.
Surely if the system is running correct and the car gets driven (not just to the shops/school) then this extra shouldn't be needed.
We have owned ours for about 10yrs and never had any DPF warnings on the dash.

J
 
I don't really understand the need to do this though.
Surely if the system is running correct and the car gets driven (not just to the shops/school) then this extra shouldn't be needed.
We have owned ours for about 10yrs and never had any DPF warnings on the dash.

J
I get cars at the garage here in France in the countryside and the majority that do small journeys suffer more. The minority are sensor failures or sensor pipe blockages. 👍
 
I get cars at the garage here in France in the countryside and the majority that do small journeys suffer more. The minority are sensor failures or sensor pipe blockages. 👍
I totally understand that. But a quick (well 30mins) blast up the road will sort it. Maybe that's why there are so many old cars around our village:).
We live in the countryside but, We drive the car ;).

The OP said he got a warning before he drove it to regen, then spent money to clean again:vb-confused2:. Cant see the point, or the need.
Never seen a DPF warning light:).

J
 
I don't really understand the need to do this though.
Surely if the system is running correct and the car gets driven (not just to the shops/school) then this extra shouldn't be needed.
We have owned ours for about 10yrs and never had any DPF warnings on the dash.

J
DPFs have a lifespan and once past that point, no matter what you do they are beyond help.

Old shttiers have the dpf in the chassis somewhere, after a decade or so the makers noticed they were not running hot enough, which is why most are as close to the engine as possible.
Most hgv downpipes are lagged to keep the exhaust gases as hot as possible, sooner the after tretament gets up to temp, sooner vehicle can run in closed loop.
 
DPFs have a lifespan and once past that point, no matter what you do they are beyond help.

Old shttiers have the dpf in the chassis somewhere, after a decade or so the makers noticed they were not running hot enough, which is why most are as close to the engine as possible.
Most hgv downpipes are lagged to keep the exhaust gases as hot as possible, sooner the after tretament gets up to temp, sooner vehicle can run in closed loop.

What is the life to be expected then?

Yes that maybe the way HGV.
LR do it with running engine hotter and other things, If you want I will dig out the blurb.

End of the day if you drive the car then it should not give a warning, Unless you drive like a Granny.
If it does then maybe its the wrong car.

J
 
What is the life to be expected then?

Yes that maybe the way HGV.
LR do it with running engine hotter and other things, If you want I will dig out the blurb.

End of the day if you drive the car then it should not give a warning, Unless you drive like a Granny.
If it does then maybe its the wrong car.

J
Don't forget it's the computer that decides when and if it's about to start a cycle and the vehicle is slowed or the conditions aren't met it'll wait for the next calculated opportunity. 👍
So you must floor it everywhere then🤔😝





And why not👌😎
 
Don't forget it's the computer that decides when and if it's about to start a cycle and the vehicle is slowed or the conditions aren't met it'll wait for the next calculated opportunity. 👍
So you must floor it everywhere then🤔😝





And why not👌😎
Yes but it will do a partial.

Don’t floor it everywhere, but it is fun ;).

J
 
What is the life to be expected then?

Yes that maybe the way HGV.
LR do it with running engine hotter and other things, If you want I will dig out the blurb.

End of the day if you drive the car then it should not give a warning, Unless you drive like a Granny.
If it does then maybe its the wrong car.

J
DPF life on full size trucks is between 300k to over a million kms, all depends on the year and make of truck.
I would hazard a guess car ones are 100k area.

Last job the trucks did lots of london work, non stop after treatment issues, current workplace trucks do mainly distance work, just the one dpf issue so far, been told between 2.7 and 7k for new exhaust, wont know until they have stripped it down.
 
What is the life to be expected then?

Yes that maybe the way HGV.
LR do it with running engine hotter and other things, If you want I will dig out the blurb.

End of the day if you drive the car then it should not give a warning, Unless you drive like a Granny.
If it does then maybe its the wrong car.

J
The big killer for a DPF is repetitive forced regens & ash. Ash is cumulative and is mostly influenced by the specification of engine oil used. For example, a 4.4TDV8 should have C1 specification oil but can be run on C2 or C3 with an increase in ash build-up.
Lots of forced regens basically indicates (if everything is working correctly) that the vehicle is only completing short or low temperature journeys, a single regen will not always burn off enough to fully expose the working surface of the DPF fully, those parts that suffer soot accumulation, typically on the periphery of the outlet, will never become 'clean' and contribute to decreased engine performance and decreased regen intervals.
 
The big killer for a DPF is repetitive forced regens & ash. Ash is cumulative and is mostly influenced by the specification of engine oil used. For example, a 4.4TDV8 should have C1 specification oil but can be run on C2 or C3 with an increase in ash build-up.
Lots of forced regens basically indicates (if everything is working correctly) that the vehicle is only completing short or low temperature journeys, a single regen will not always burn off enough to fully expose the working surface of the DPF fully, those parts that suffer soot accumulation, typically on the periphery of the outlet, will never become 'clean' and contribute to decreased engine performance and decreased regen intervals.

I wonder how clean I got it with the work I did - certainly a lot of smoke came out.

I found out this week why I was getting red errors, it was because my EGR outlet was very blocked, generating low flow errors for it. When the L322 gets a low flow error it doesn't ever bother regening again. No EML unhelpfully. I guess it is to punish people who blank them off. Mine blanked it self off naturally.
 

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The smoke was probably (or at least I hope!) the detergent and remaining water burning off or evaporating, otherwise the soot will just have been washed out of the DPF into the silencers, which will just sit there forever. For an EGR outlet to be that blocked, it must have had a lot of short or low temperature runs - the same goes for the DPF.
EGR's are deactivated during regen by the DPF supervisor function within the ECM, so if there are any EGR related DTC's set, the regen function is inhibited until they are rectified & cleared as the EGR system is upstream and can negatively affect the regen function.
Edit: during regen the EGR's are inhibited to prevent high(er) temperature exhaust gas being drawn into the inlet and causing a reduction in performance, if there is an EGR fault, the position and therefore flow through the EGR valves cannot be relied upon which is why regens are inhibited. I would normally expect an EGR fault to put the EML on though, especially on an EU5+ vehicle
 
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The big killer for a DPF is repetitive forced regens & ash. Ash is cumulative and is mostly influenced by the specification of engine oil used. For example, a 4.4TDV8 should have C1 specification oil but can be run on C2 or C3 with an increase in ash build-up.
Lots of forced regens basically indicates (if everything is working correctly) that the vehicle is only completing short or low temperature journeys, a single regen will not always burn off enough to fully expose the working surface of the DPF fully, those parts that suffer soot accumulation, typically on the periphery of the outlet, will never become 'clean' and contribute to decreased engine performance and decreased regen intervals.
Lots pf trucks have a button on the dash so the driver can stop the regen in progress, problem is on the smaller trucks the regen process loses the driver some bhp, so they all keep pushing that damned button until the dpf is chocka block, then it will not do a regen itself and needs puter to do a forced regen, drivers can be very special!
 
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