TD5 clutch master.

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mikegsxr

Active Member
Posts
262
Location
Romsey
Evening,
I need to replace the clutch master cylinder, the new one is leaking after less than a year of service.
Has anyone replaced it without first removing the pedal box?
Cheers,
Mike.
 
You can get the master cylinder off (and on again) with minimal dismantling by feeding a flat ring spanner up from the footwell and getting a 1/4" drive socket on the other end of the bolt at the back. There's just enough room to move the ratchet a couple of clicks so very slowly the nut will come off. I use a screwdriver to press the ring spanner on so it doesn't drop off, and the pedal box restricts it so it doesn't move from side to side. I've done a few like this now. Helps if you loosen the coolant header tank off and get it out of the way too.
 
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Thanks all, I did the job using the 'Brown' method, a bit fiddly as I had to remove the push-rod from the cylinder to winkle it in place, but all in all I think preferable to getting the pedal box out. The failed one is a Delphi, I had hoped it woud be as good as OEM but...
Girling one from the main dealer is now fitted, we'll see. few pics if anyone fancies it,
Mike.
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Thanks for posting the feedback.
How did you manage to get the bottom nut back on when refitting the new one. If I ever need to do mine again I will do it that way, I had to undo my aircon system panel to get the carpets up to remove the box bolts on my XS 90, it was a right pain.
 
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Getting the trim out and back was probably the biggest faf (mine also an XS). Getting the bottom washer and nut back on wasn't that much of problem if you have long slim fingers. Surprisingly my short sausage fingers made easy work of it...
 
I fitted a trw clutch master cylinder only lasted 3 months push rod ball end was sheding bits of metal which scored bore of cylinder could dot claim as I bought cylinder 4 years ago whilst working full time
 
All looks pretty familiar. What a clean Land Rover! I find they'll go in without taking the rod off if you waggle them about a bit. My 1/4" ratchet is just the right size to go in the hole on the bulkhead side of the structure, so I can zip them up a few clicks at a time. The only problem I have is mixing up the nuts from the fixing bolts with the one that goes on the rod. They look similar but the threads are not compatible - UNF versus metric I think.
 
As you've found out, it's possible but a pain to do it in situ. I just pull the pedal housing out these days, it is more work but it makes the actual replacement so much easier.
Mo
 
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