P38 diesel not starting

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RangeRoller dt said:
Usually if it’s immobilised there will be some sort of warning/dash message, unless it’s lost sync in which case it acts like yours is.
The stop solenoid is on the fuel injection pump, put your hand on it and you should feel/hear the click when someone turns the ignition on for you.
Click to expand...
Thanks.

There are no messages on the dash. If the solenoid is the one wired plug on the right hand side inserted straight then it does not click, as far as what I can feel from when my wife cranked it over. So loss of sync means….communication issues and then if so how can be remedied or can it be remedied?
 
Diagnostic- A nanocom unlocked with the correct option for your engine (edc/gems/Thor) , the more expensive type one Data has, or a testbook T4 the - LR one.
Basically The code just needs to be put in manually or have the EKA sorted out.
There are members on here that already have the kit and know how that are willing to help if near.

If the stop solenoid is physically broke you’d need to change it. Not usual.
- the other possibility is it’s functioning correctly but not clicking because it actually is immobilised/de synced.
 
flex38 said:
Thanks for this info.

If immobiliser is somehow not allowing solenoid action, how is this tested; also would the engine still crank?
Click to expand...

As below, if it has lost sync then it will crank but not fire as no fuel is allowed through. They'll be no sign of anything amiss. Even if you energise the stop solenoid the collar in the top of the FIP will still be at zero so no fuel will go through. Only diag like Nanocom can cure it.
 
Got the P38 to run by adjusting the FIP backwards……but it revs off the chart, psychotic like, and there is no in between that and just cranking.
Any ideas? It’s as if the throttle is stuck wide open! I am sure it’s an electronic throttle?
not sure what to do as letting it rev like that am sure it’s not good for it.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Diagnostic- A nanocom unlocked with the correct option for your engine (edc/gems/Thor) , the more expensive type one Data has, or a testbook T4 the - LR one.
Basically The code just needs to be put in manually or have the EKA sorted out.
There are members on here that already have the kit and know how that are willing to help if near.

If the stop solenoid is physically broke you’d need to change it. Not usual.
- the other possibility is it’s functioning correctly but not clicking because it actually is immobilised/de synced.
Click to expand...
Thanks and am in cornwall
 
flex38 said:
Got the P38 to run by adjusting the FIP backwards……but it revs off the chart, psychotic like, and there is no in between that and just cranking.
Any ideas? It’s as if the throttle is stuck wide open! I am sure it’s an electronic throttle?
not sure what to do as letting it rev like that am sure it’s not good for it.
Click to expand...
Yes it's electronic throttle. Might be a good idea yo get the FIP timing right. Have you touched the top of the FIP at all?
 
flex38 said:
Got the P38 to run by adjusting the FIP backwards……but it revs off the chart, psychotic like, and there is no in between that and just cranking.
Any ideas? It’s as if the throttle is stuck wide open! I am sure it’s an electronic throttle?
not sure what to do as letting it rev like that am sure it’s not good for it.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you moved the top of the pump and either the control collar is not engaged with the pin or it is but is in the wrong place. It is fractions of a millimetre to get the pump tol in the right place. If the throttle doesn't do anything then the pin isn't in the hole and the top has to come off. That's assuming the top has been off.
 
Thanks so much for the replies and direction.

FIP loosend up so as to shift it to see if it would just start up. Are you saying top off of FIP? Is throttle control on the pump or elsewhere? Did not pull anything off of the FIP, just slackened off.

Cannot seem to get it to sit anywhere between nothing and oh, so too much. One problem is, I cannot find a drawing showing any of the parts you are describing. (Control collar, pin) And I am in fear to continue trying, as it may damage engine, as it goes off the rev chart.
 
flex38 said:
Thanks so much for the replies and direction.

FIP loosend up so as to shift it to see if it would just start up. Are you saying top off of FIP? Is throttle control on the pump or elsewhere? Did not pull anything off of the FIP, just slackened off.

Cannot seem to get it to sit anywhere between nothing and oh, so too much. One problem is, I cannot find a drawing showing any of the parts you are describing. (Control collar, pin) And I am in fear to continue trying, as it may damage engine, as it goes off the rev chart.
Click to expand...
The top of the FIP has the control mechanism, if you have not touched it, it should be OK. It really needs diagnostics with which you could check things like the throttle pedal potentiometer.
 
Datatek said:
The top of the FIP has the control mechanism, if you have not touched it, it should be OK. It really needs diagnostics with which you could check things like the throttle pedal potentiometer.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for the info. So I really, need to get into the brain of the system and track what is going on with it from there. Nano or one of the others. If the BecM is reset, do you think this will work? As the problems began with the door lock, the BecM no longer going to sleep, then sleeping once I fixed the door locks, but then the cold snap and the alarm activated, drained the battery and the BecM went back into sleep, then waking up again as before. Door locks are still working fine.
So is this all just BecM scrambled? I’m just come to a loss.
 
flex38 said:
Thanks so much for the info. So I really, need to get into the brain of the system and track what is going on with it from there. Nano or one of the others. If the BecM is reset, do you think this will work? As the problems began with the door lock, the BecM no longer going to sleep, then sleeping once I fixed the door locks, but then the cold snap and the alarm activated, drained the battery and the BecM went back into sleep, then waking up again as before. Door locks are still working fine.
So is this all just BecM scrambled? I’m just come to a loss.
Click to expand...
Apart from the immobiliser, he BECM has little or nothing to do with the problem. With Nanocom, you can check all the relevant signals. Altering the FIP timing should not make the engine rev it's nuts off.
 
Gentlemen, with all your efforts, I thank you, but have have come to a dead end. So I must find someone who is of greater capacity than I to take this on. If anyone knows of where this sweet ride may go and reside, give me a shout.

Regards.
JW
 
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