How to - Land Rover 90 TD to Discovery 200TDi Engine Conversion

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Ok guys, having trouble removing the top bellhousing bolts from the Tdi... any tips on how to do it? We've taken off the engine mounts and lowered her as far as she'll go but it still seems nigh-on impossible to get a tool in to undo the nuts :confused:

Cheers
 
Rightio then... slow progress, but I've now removed the clutch, flywheel and flywheel housing from the Tdi.

Bit stuck now, I've got a clutch, flywheel and flywheel housing from both engines, and I'm not sure what combination I need to put back onto the Tdi. Not being a mechanic I'm just not really sure what I'm looking at. Do I need to replace any seals or gaskets? I've got a 'rear crankshaft oil seal' arriving at some point this week, but not sure if I need any others. Should I clean it all up before putting it back together or just leave it as is?

Thanks, and here's some piccies I've taken along the way. :D:D

IMG_3983.jpg


IMG_3986.jpg


Holes I drilled to get at the last couple of bellhousing nuts :D
IMG_3997.jpg


Back of the Tdi
IMG_4002.jpg


IMG_4004.jpg


So any advice appreciated, completely new to this but having a lot of fun! :)
 
Clean it up and replace the rear seal. If the flywheel is rusting give a a going over with the wire brush. Oh and make sure you use loctite and torque the flywheel bolts back up to the right torque setting.
 
You use the cltch for the flywheel and gearbox.....i.e. your old un. I would put a new one in though aand a new fork as it could save you hassle later on.
 
Sirus said:
Yes the crankshaft seal (use a doubty one)....and the cardboard gasket (one with the pretty blue pattern on it)
Click to expand...

Ok, great cheers.

Oddly, when I took the flywheel housing off the TD engine, it had no cardboard gasket in there at all, just bare metal. Thought it was a bit odd, plus it was full of oil :eek: :D
 
richardjeaton said:
Yep they're necessary as the rad sits further forward in a Defender than a Disco so they are too short to reach. From memory they're about 30cm too short but don't quote me on that!

I got mine done over the counter while I waited at my local Pirtek UK : Europe's Number One provider of fluid transfer solutions. Hose replacement, mobile hose replacement. but they weren't cheap at about 70 quid! I needed them doing asap though as I'd been let down by a local Landy guy who I'd already been waiting on for over a week :mad: If you have anywhere local that does hydraulic hoses/repairs etc then it would be worth asking them too.

Cheers

Richard
Click to expand...
HELLO ALL......just a little tip on the oil cooler pips.
Use yr old td pips from yr td rad.
Swap yr threded connections from yr old rad.
Cut off the elbows to the engine side.
Use yr 200tdi elbows and get a couple of double ear o ring clips from yr local fwb or use that well known selling site on internet ( tbay i think )lol.
All in all it cost me about 80p.
Use NIPPER PLIERS, you can find a cheep pair at a carbooty if you havent got any.
"but" if they are quite sharp be careful not to cut the o ring clip do a little on each side till they are tight.
Think the size i needed was 22-24 but dont quote me on it, wise to check.

Ok thanks for the info from richardjeaton on the temp problem i almost got a new HG lol.
and thanks to all the other posters on there help to......:crazy_driver:
 
landymanmel90 said:
HELLO ALL......just a little tip on the oil cooler pips.
Use yr old td pips from yr td rad.
Swap yr threded connections from yr old rad.
Cut off the elbows to the engine side.
Use yr 200tdi elbows and get a couple of double ear o ring clips from yr local fwb or use that well known selling site on internet ( tbay i think )lol.
All in all it cost me about 80p.
Use NIPPER PLIERS, you can find a cheep pair at a carbooty if you havent got any.
"but" if they are quite sharp be careful not to cut the o ring clip do a little on each side till they are tight.
Think the size i needed was 22-24 but dont quote me on it, wise to check.

Ok thanks for the info from richardjeaton on the temp problem i almost got a new HG lol.
and thanks to all the other posters on there help to......:crazy_driver:
Click to expand...

Or you can take out the adaptors from the TD oil filter housing and use your TD pipes without cutting a thing :D .
 
True .....
Maybe there is different types because i tryed that and mine didnt fit so thats why i cut off the elbows.:crazy_driver:
 
Brilliant thread, followed it almost to the letter and now have defender that goes up hills in 5th!! If anyone wants a breakdown of my costs, pm me and I'll forward a spreadsheet. £951 including the disco. You can play with the mods to work it into a budget. I've put a VAT bit on the spreedsheet so you can have a look at the cost when it goes up to 20%.
 
richardjeaton said:
No worries! If anything doesn't make sense then just shout...

Cheers

Richard
Click to expand...
hi richard.
just done 200tdi swap in2 90
followed your info on what to do,
just a bit stuck on wiring
can you help me out.
need to know where to link wires into 90 loom
brown wires from starter mtr /red/white wire,
i,ve done oil/water temp .
done heater plug relay
is there anything else on the wiring side to do.
i,m abit thick when it comes to wiring.

thanks for your help getting me this far
landy nutter/ tyre man dave
 
Sounds like you got it all apart from the starter motor wires - all of them go onto the top stud on the starter, and the black cable on the starter goes onto the engine block iirc (should still be connected if you haven't changed the starter). The alternator wires are the same colour, but you will need to connect the 90 wires onto the Tdi wires at some point - the Tdi uses different plugs to the TD.
 
Well, been stuck on what everyone agrees is a simple job now for over week - about to have to start hiring a car, so any advice gratefully received (apart from scrapping it, which has seriously occured to me I have to admit). I have a 110 Defender (1984) which was 2.5 n/a and into which I'm attempting to fit an ex-Disco 200TDI. Everywhere on the net says this is pretty easy, and I've used the excellent guide on this thread - but here's the catch that has had me stopped for 3 days now (on top of which I've ran out of time off and I'm now on my night shifts and reaching exhuastion point with doing this instead of sleeping! - But need a working vehicle by tuesday latest or else I'm going to have to hire). Mounts adapted etc, engine in - except no way, no how can I get the nearside/passenger side of the flywheel to meet fully with the bellhousing. I've taken it back out, checked the studs, all straight and true and matching the holes, checked for obstructions, waggled the engine and so no to the point where I've hurt my back, even tried levering with a scaffy bar! But no matter how I approach it, for some reason we can't get that side to go fully home. I did think it might be the starter heat shield, but there is clearence there. The mountings have room for the mounting bolt to move forward on both sides, the gearbox has been raised to meet the flywheel cover (and even tried with it down and every position in between). We simply cannot get that side to meet up. It always goes on askew. As close as we can get it is with the studs, just reaching the very outer edge of the holes in the bellhousing on that side. The other side will go in no problem, but we cannot get it to go straight in, and as much as we look, we can see no logical reason! Any thoughts anyone?
 
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