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...A little bit late after the event, as I'm sure you've got it sorted by now, but here's a really good link showing which way round a slave cylinder should be and also the reverse bleed method Replacing and reverse bleeding - clutch slave cylinder Land Rover. - YouTube

Quite simply a great thread and a bloody good reference for the rest of us... looks like the end is in sight :)

Mine's a 1975 S3 and only one speed

Yeah... got the Exmoor seats in mine too... very comfy, even given my more than ample size and weight!

Liking the photo - the matt black looks good...nice clean and simple :)

Mine was definitely a bolt not a stud to hold the lozenge in, I do remember one of them being a bit of a bugger to keep on the protruding lugs of the manifold until it was tight enough to grip....kept slipping off when trying to tighten it (right hand one if I remember rightly).... cannot think...

Just had a look to see if I could see anything from the photos I took when I put "Flo" back together (wife's landy that I rolled over - but that's another story) and it reminded me that those lozenges are flat on one side and chamfered on the other.... if not put on the right way (flat side...

Don't forget not to fully tighten the two manifolds together until after you have torqued them both up against the head - I did it the other way around first time I did it and couldn't understand why I didn't get a proper seal - Doh!!!

Seems fine so will just clean it up add oil and fit it on - just thought it would be an easy take off and it obviously isn't

Nope I got it wrong again.... what I thought was a hole with a pin through is stuck as a really stuck thing stuck with sticky stuff... so reckon I'll just have to leave it as it is ?

Thanks for that Mrchurchill109....looks like there is a pin that goes horizontally through the bollard which I guess just punches out???? I assume that the bollard removes without need to completely disassemble as according to the exploded parts drawing there would appear to be a grease nipple...

Hi Guys, I have an old Fairey capstan winch...all seems to work fine, but I want to take it apart and give it a good clean, only problem is I don't know how to take the bollard off???? I thought it was just a case of undoing the three bolts on the top, but that just seems to keep the cap on -...

...I think you've misunderstood me James - not bleeding with nipple at the bottom, as that would be upside down slave cylinder... what I meant was bleeding the system by pumping fluid in via the nipple on the slave cylinder up to the master cylinder, as opposed to the usual way from top down -...

....sorry wasn't suggesting you leave the slave cylinder upside down - need to put it right way up, but bleeding from the bottom up is so much easier (even I have done it and I'm about as big a dullard as you can get on this sort of stuff (I was shown how to do it by an old geezer after many...

Try reverse bleeding it using a new/clean oil can connected to the slave nipple and pumping the fluid up to the master cylinder thus allowing air bubbles to rise with the fluid rather than working against it

As Killajoules said...looks level so happy days :)

Easiest thing is to raise the seat a bit to give more leg room so that legs don't have to go out sideways towards the handbrake - just an inch or two makes an amazing amount of difference - plus I also fitted a slightly smaller steering wheel from an austin Maestro to give a bit more leg...

Vaseline will soften the rubber slightly, as will glycerine (not too much though else the rubber will turn to goo) or even WD40 (spray/paint on then put in a sealed polythene bag)

Yeah driver-side springs take account of offset loading to the landy...fuel tank, transfer box, fat drivers, etc - bloody clever really:rolleyes:

Looking forward to before and after picture comparrison when you finished :)