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Thanks for the comprehensive response to my query.

From looking at a spare pair of carbs that I have i may have arrived at a solution, but I'm not fully sure. The bottom of the float chamber has a pizza slice shaped depression in the bottom plate. In this, the bottom of the jet holder is situated. The bottom of each jet is orientated that fuel...

You seem to be suffering from gentle driving syndrome. The second turbo on the 4.4 doesn't really kick in until circa 3000RPM. Tickling about and driving gently is not the best way to drive diesels, especially the 4.4. Your Range Rover needs an Italian tune up. My friend who works on these...

It wouldn't be logical to have different jet sizes on each carb as it would screw up fuelling. The needles are the same in each one. There may be better info online if you search for Rover SD1 V8 threads as they had the same carbs. If you're buying kits or gaskets I'd suggest going to Burlen for...

Pour a kettle of hot water on the handbrake drum?

Find a 6 sided impact socket that closely fits over the wheel nut. Cut approx 8mm off the end of a 6mm diameter bolt. Put this piece into the groove in your wheel nut. Put the impact socket back over the wheel nut. The bolt will wedge between the groove and one of the sockets 6 "corners". Lefty...

Yes, they will pull off. One metre of hose should be enough but I'd get some extra. You'll probable find other piping needing replacement while you're in there...

You can source diesel spill pipe in most motor factors. It's shouldn't cost more than 20 quid. I would suggest replacing the whole lot. It's not difficult, although a long nosed pliers will come in handy to get hold of the awkward ones. It has been a while since I've been under the bonnet of a...

Your spring doesn't look to be the worst. I'd second the idea of properly lubricating the pedal pivots. Your valence panel is off a 2A. I've removed mine, as it let's me stand between the bumper and grille when spannering.

The L represents the best and most efficient angle to open your wallet whilst removing your bank card to pay for yet another repair bill.

Hi All, I'm assisting work on the restoration of a Series 2A, fitted with a later 5mb Series 3 petrol engine. In an effort for better reliability I want to fit a more modern geared pre engaged starter motor. Can anyone confirm I can fit a starter off a 2.5 90, or indeed suggest a better...

I would highly recommend that you buy a can of electrical switch cleaner like Super Servisol, and give every connection a squirt before reassembly. It will remove corrosion and also assist disassembly in the future.

Check the plug gaps. If they're too big it can erode the distributor cap pins.

Also, examine the small earthing wire from your baseplate to the distributor body for tight connections and general condition. They don't last forever.

I also don't have much faith in the modern components as the quality is not what it was back in the good old days. Luckily I still have a few OE condensers from a friend whose father ran a motor factors a long time ago. Firstly I would dump the resistor. That tech was ok back in the days of old...

Agreed. Costs for bringing in parts from UK to Ireland has increased since Brexit. I'm not sure if the lock I showed is the correct one but its a start, pardon the pun....

https://strykerlandrovers.com/product/steering-column-lock-3-door-barrels-keys/

Have a look at strykerlandrovers website. They list the locks, and are based in Limerick.

Count the teeth on the old belt and compare to the new one. Also compare the idler/pullies. You might have been supplied with a wrong part.

I'd advise checking the function of the lift pump. Pull off the outlet pipe and crank it for a few seconds, as opposed to tickling the priming lever. The lift pumps can be fussy with the gasket /spacer thickness to the block. If the clearance is not correct the pump can either not prime...