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I suspect the cooling fan was a little seized. The fan is controlled by the engine ECU so no temperature sensor to change. The fan motor is very small, about 20mm in diameter, and very low powered so wouldn’t take much to jam the motor. I removed it and connected it directly to the battery and...

Hopefully the last update......all test carried out with the Range Rover stationary.... So I disconnected the E-box cooling fan and ran the engine with bonnet closed to generate lots of heat in the engine bay while monitoring the temperature in the E-box. It took some time but the E-box...

Will I’ve unplugged both the crank and cam position sensors in turn. 1 - Cam sensor unplugged - Engine starts as normal, no EML light but fault code P0340 (cam position sensor) stored in the ECU. 2 - Crank sensor unplugged - Engine no start, as per the above post, no fault stored. neither...

Thanks for the info. I will unplug the sensor when running and see if I get a fault code. But I should still be able to access the ECU which I can’t. Will let you know.

I will give it a try. I will monitor ECU volts as well and see what happens.

I will give it a try. But surly if the CPS fails, I should get a fault code? Also I should still be able to access the engine ECU with a scan tool while the issue is present but I can’t. I will disconnect the E-box cooling fan today and see if it cuts out while on the drive. Still need to find...

Would be a nice quick fix but it’s definitely the ECU shutting down due to temperature. If it was a sensor, then that would be show when the ECU is scanned, but no fault codes show except for P1669 (E-box cooling fan open circuit) which I have caused by bypassing the engine ECU to allow the fan...

I did think about that but the engine light does not illuminate when the issue arises, also the idle air control valve stops humming as it’s totally lost it’s supply or ground. If I unplug the crank sensor, the engine light illuminates. I’m positive the issue is with the engine ECU getting too...

Could still be knackered electronics! ECU could be failing but my guess there is a temperature threshold that caused the ECU to shut down to prevent total destruction. Why would it warn you if the cooling fan has failed? Obviously essentially if at low speeds and high revs, lots of heat under...

That’s what I thought, until the bloody thing cut out at the end of the MOT!!! Exactly the same issue, but made another bit of progress. We now know positives and grounds are all good, and it has to be temperature related. The issue only arose after the fast idle emissions test. The Range Rover...

After studying RAVE, it appears the ground terminal under the engine bay fuse box on the drivers side is the only ground for the engine ECU. This wire is also spliced to supply a ground to the engine temperature sensor, gearbox selector switch and for an earth shield to prevent interference for...

I’ve checked for continuity in the diagnostic wiring all is good between BECM, engine ECU and OBD connector. I even cut the comms wire to the engine ECU with engine running, and it remained running! So guess it’s maybe not a comms issue? Looking at earth connections next.

Well that was short lived!!!! Just replaced the heater matrix O ring seals and had the Rangie running on the drive for 20 mins while checking for leaks etc, and the sod cut out, exactly the same issue!!!! One thing I did notice is that the engine light goes out immediately as you turn the key to...

Hopefully

Well hopefully solved the issue. I soldered out the multi connector in the drivers side footwell but the issue remained but not as constant. I presume while soldering and manipulating wires I disturbed something. So with engine running I frantically shook wires / connectors in that area, and...

So had a quick look at the engine bay fuse box and all looks good. Swapped relays around and the engine started as normal. So to prove the fault I removed the engine relays (3 of according to the relay list) one at a time to see what happened. With the engine running, when any one of the three...

Just finished a night shift so will have a look later and update.

Yes I have RAVE and studied it well!!!! The engine ECU has two positive feeds, one powers the ECU, the other is used by the ECU to feed the 02 sensor heaters only, so only one real positive feed for the brain. This comes via fuse Fuse 26 and relay 19 i think (will check) in the engine bay fuse...

I’ve checked the wiring diagram and the engine ECU communicates directly with the gearbox ECU through 3 wires. I guess that if the engine ECU has no power, the gearbox ECU will show gearbox faulty as it won’t have any inputs from the engine ECU, engine speed, throttle position etc.

100% not the battery. It’s been sat on a battery conditioner charger / battery monitor (CTEK MXS 7) for over 2 weeks and no issues found. The battery is a Bosch and only a year old. I have checked volts with engine off and engine running, no issues. I’ve carried out a load test on the battery...