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You can see below shock lengths (open/closed): Factory Front 580/370 Factory SLS Rear 570/360 OME 60024 Front 587/368 OME 60025 Rear 587/368 TF127 (similar to TF146) Front 640/390 TF128 (similar to TF147) Rear 640/390 So yes, difference is small. Very unlikely to bottom out the shock but...

As far as I know you need to adjust the bump stops as the shocks will bottom out (closed length is significantly longer than stock) before the axle hits the bump stop. Hence there is a possibility to kill the shocks if this happens on a big hit.

Hi Stej, So you end up with +2" shocks at the back and standard lenght at the front? Did you adjust the bump stops as well?

Which ones did you choose?

Hi Ste, What springs did you use for the front? TF118 is a standard lenght shock, not a +2" (although it doesn't have the same measurements as the stock one, see below) Discovery 2 shock lengths: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/212310-discovery-2-front-rear-shock-length-list.html...

So what shocks and front springs did you go for?

Spacers come with brackets for the height sensors (you can see them in the link above). And after you fit the spacers you can adjust the height at the back using a nanocom in order to match the front height (if it's too high for example). If you lift the rear using nanocom without fitting the...

For matching the lift at the front you will need spacers under the bags (if you want the car seating level). https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/terrafirma-discovery-rear-spring-spacer-tf526-p-33387.html

What are you going to use at the back? Air or springs?

A friend has the +2" Terrafirma springs and their Pro Sport shocks on his 110 and the ride is much softer/smoother than my car. So I was tempted to fit the equivalent setup to my disco (and keep the air).

I'm having the same issues with AIR, no ACE, on 245/70/16. My shocks are supposed to be newish (2 years old Ironman) according to previous owner. Front springs look sagged. I'm thinking changing to new springs and shocks but can't make my mind on which brand/models (OME or TF). I really want...

I got the standard one that suits my non chipped td5. I asked for any options for upgrade but they said it was not needed.

Update A couple of days after considering my options and trying to decide what to do the autobox suddenly just died! As I was cruising down the road something gave up (probably the T/C) and there was no drive. So a refurbished box was ordered from Ashcroft and fitted to the car. Wow, what a...

I have the same complain from my D2 as well. It rides on air at the back and Ironman shocks all around (previous owner said they are 2 years old). Does anyone recommend another shock for a better ride? Rough roads and bumps feel extremely harsh compared to any other car I have driven.

@brian47 do you also have a pic similar to the first one you posted of how that looks without the spigot?

Hey, thanks for your replies. The thing is that the oil was cleanish, there were no bits in the pan and the stall test is spot on. But I guess if the issue is within the box there is only one option. Take it off and do a full rebuild. There is no point not going all the way with this, right...

Anyone?

UPDATE So after changing the oil/filter and seeing no improvements I moved to plan B and had the valve body removed/cleaned/checked/rebuilt. There was a lot of dirt inside and the valve responsible for shifts 1-2 needed polishing (was a bit rough). New oil added and for the first couple hundred...

So which kit are you going to fit? I was looking at spacers under the rear bags, OME 2777 springs at the front, OME60024 shocks at the front and OME60025 shocks at the back. Not sure if the rear shocks I mentioned are compatible with the bags and spacers.

Hi all, I found this very useful step by step guide and I was wondering how similar is this gearbox to the one found in a TD5? http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/jason/4HP22EH_ValveBody/4HP22EH-Valvebody.html Also, where can I find a schematic/spare list for the box found in a TD5?