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This is were I got it from, thanks for the heads up

My car is a 10p de-EGR and disconnecting the unknown MAF made a noticeable difference. I can't wait to receive the original MAF and refit the wastegate modulator and see how better it will be. I am also concidering changing the actuator too as it doesn't look original or in good condition...

Way too expensive here in Cyprus compare to online

Strange but they don't sell me just 1 "Attention: You cannot buy less than 2 items of MHK100620"

Best source for an original MAF?

Disconnected works better I think. Feels smoother and upshifts take place at lower revs. Roughness at a specific range of the revs is gone and acceleration is better. And all this without even warming up, in the first 5 miles! Will it be even better with the original MAF? Why didn't I check...

Will check asap, thanks

So in other words replace asap with original?

As the title says, what sensor do I currently have? No issues really but if it's the crap one why not change it to the original one?

In the setup described above is the modulator omitted?

Is it necessary when changing harness to change injector washers and seals?

Best way to do it? Brake cleaner will dο?

My mechanic (who owns a td5 auto for 10 yrs) charged me 200€ for labour and 100€ for 10 litres of ATF. And before that he did few other tries to fix the autobox with no success (free of charge) Note that I'm in Cyprus

I can't be of much help, I had my mechanic do it for me. But I very specifically told him about the oil pump thing I read in the FAQ section. My td5 autobox from Ashcroft works perfectly fine from day one. I hope you sort it out fast, easy and free!

From Ashcrofts FAQ I have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why? The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to...

Thanks for the tip, I will look for another one then

I pumped into this thread https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/253352-td5-waste-gate-actuator-operation.html and I was wondering which setup did you end up using on your TD5? Did you keep the MBC and WGM?

Thank you all for the replies. So I removed the Smartbox (I can't tell any difference anyway), I will order a new modulator (PIERBURG) to replace the by-passed one since I am guessing it's a faulty one, I am also considering replacing the wastegate actuator just in case with this...

I read on many places that the modulator is the source of many problems and by-passing it is not an issue. You say that with modulator the curve is more regressive? And if I reconnect it there will be more torque/power at lower rpm? Hence the box will not kick-down? Reset the adaptive values...

Well, I am not sure if my car has an issue but what I will describe doesn't seem normal to me. So I would like to hear your opinion on this :) My car is a 2001 td5 auto with 120.000 miles, the EGR deleted, cat removed with straight through pipe, no remap (as far I know). It also has a Van Aaken...