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And by the way, the reason for getting water in the airbox that easily was because of the steel aftermarket bumper fitted by the previous owner. The low profile of the bumper and the removal of some of the plastic bits gives easy access to water. A hard splash can very easily direct water to the...

Thanks for the link! Of-course everything will be checked and any other issues will be sorted.

Update I removed the sump and oil pump and I can see conrod #5 is definitely bend. Next I will remove the head and see if it's only a matter of a bend conrod.

Correct on both

I can't do that now, I'm heavily invested in the gearbox :) My autobox is a rebuilted one from Ashcroft with only 5000 miles on it. So I will stick with a Td5. After I strip the engine I will report back with my findings.

Not 300£ where I am based unfortunately (Cyprus)

Not forward and not backwards... I guess I have to strip it now and see what I'm left with

No I have not yet. My next try will be removing no5 injector and if 2nd time unlucky the sump is off. And if 3rd time unlucky then as you said is 2nd hand engine time... On a side note, the mechanic is a friend with a 20+ years experience on LRs. He lets me use his garage and tools, gives...

My mechanic suspects damage to the lower part of the engine since there is zero movement at the crank pulley bolt. I might remove the sump and have a look from the bottom too. The puddle was not massive, I'm not sure how I got it so wrong. Is not my first time through a puddle with this...

I was looking at snorkels when I got home. To be honest I wasn't expecting the car getting drowned that easily, the puddle was not that big. I don't know if the previous owner did any modifications to the airbox or to the inside of the wing.

I haven't stopped since last night when it happened...it didn't help

So, long story short, I misjudged a puddle. When I exited the puddle the engine stopped. I checked the air filter and it was full of water. I removed the 4 heaters so the water can escape, tried to turn the engine with a spanner (after I removed the fan) and it doesn't move a bit. What to do next?

I'm not sure that I understand where you are coming from...

Dictionary: If you say to someone you know or see where they are coming from, you mean you understand why that person has a particular opinion, often although you do not have the exact same opinion.

I understand where you are coming from but my understanding is that you are buying the knowledge and time of the person who wrote the map. Maybe is not as hard and time consuming as I think it's also repeatable which means they only do the hard work once.

That is actually extremely cheap compared to the offers from reputable tuners. My engine is a 2001 10p and I don't know if the ECU has been touched by anyone before. I have never opened it to see if there are visible marks.

Has anyone tried a Viezu map on his Td5? I never heard of them before but a local tuner is working with them and I thought I will look into it. Getting a remap from one of the tuners in the UK is not easy for my 10p ECU as I have to ship it for chip replacement.

Even lifting the car from the chassis for a repair/oil change will have the prop fouling the crossmember. It is a very easy job and only necessary if you are fitting +2" shocks (as I said not many do).

If you check the link posted above everything will make sense (see attached pic as well). Please note that the spacing is only needed when you go for +2" shocks which means the axles can drop (when fully extended) lower than the stock ones. Most people use new springs or spacers that provide the...

You can see the spacers in the link posted above at the bottom of the page: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/lift.html No other changes (UJ, bushes etc)