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Hi, I've got parabolic springs on my 66 SWB and the rear is down on the drivers side. The springs are on the correct side, and they're fairly new I believe. They're labelled Lrp06, which I believe are a GB Springs product, but I can't find them on their website. Has anyone any information as to...

Yeah, I measured - it's about 90inches. I need to move it on as it takes up a lot of room, but I need to identify it first. It does seem to be some sort of hybrid. It's a good solid chassis. Not sure what it's worth?

I've bought this chassis as part of a job lot & wondered if anyone can advise me regarding what Land Rover it's from? I believe it to be from a 90? Also, where would I find the chassis number?

Just got round to having the swivels powder coated - picked them up today. They look bloody good, & nice & smooth. £15 + vat each! Saved a fortune on buying new ones.

I'm currently rebuilding a 1966 2a and am a bit puzzled regarding the engine number. The number is 90618309A, and is a petrol engine. However when I look up engine numbers it states that 9061 should be a diesel engine. Also it has the name Bilchrome cast into the block. I understand that petrol...

Bloody predictive text! Don't think Rubber Fairies will be any good - should be gaitors!

Yeah, Aerocoat near Gt.Yarmouth. Always used them for powder coating. Saved me a fortune not having to buy new swivels. Going to fit rubber fairies this time round as well.

Just a little bit of info that may be of use & save people some money. 6 years ago I rebuilt my SWB Series 3 that had stood outside for 15 years. The front swivels were obviously completely shot, I took a gamble & had them powder coated (£35) - 6 years later they're still fine - no leaky grease...

Thanks for the replies. I'll try the ones suggested.

The current ones are riveted on to the hood component parts. I'll take a look again at Paddocks. They're not shown in my parts manual.

Hi, Anyone know the part numbers for the rubber seals on the hood rain channels where the door closes? Getting ready to put the hood back on for the winter so would like to make it as leak proof as possible.

I live in Harleston, Norfolk. I drive a 74 swb Series 3 that I've stripped & put back together after it spent 15 years under a tree! I've kept it looking the same as it did then! Done all the work myself, which I enjoyed. I fancy some green laning if anyone's around this way, or just catching up...

Yeah, fitted a new pulley. The oil leak turned out to be the pulley worn - it had a groove in it. Fitted a new oil seal obviously as well.

Just thought I'd post some information on how I removed my crankshaft bolt. I tried various methods as described on the forum, but nothing worked. This is what worked for me: Remove alternator. Drill through the lower pulley. Bolt alternator bracket to the hole drilled through the pulley...

Thought I'd try using a high lift jack to spread it slightly. Checked the rest of the chassis - all OK, it's just the nearside front dumb iron that's out. If that don't work I might make my own bumper to fit.

I took the measurements from my genuine Landrover Service Manual. It states that the measurement between the 2 inside bumper fixing holes should be 66.3cm, and the chassis rails should be 78.7cm. My chassis is 65.5 & 78 respectively. I bought the chassis about 3 years ago & had it shot blasted...

Thanks for the reply. I've found some measurements & my front chassis rails are 7mm out (to narrow). Was wondering the best way around the problem? It doesn't, appear to have had a replacement x member. Any suggestions?

Hi I have a series 3 SWB1974 that I have rebuilt onto what I believe to be a military 2a chassis. I' trying to fit my existing front bumper but the holes don't line up, they are nearly 1cm out to the centre. Would the military bumper have different mountings? .