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I've never had to use EKA myself as i have two working fobs and a spare receiver within reach all the time + this THIS but i think you must follow the procedure EXACTLY as stated albeit i dont know if it's true or not :p :

Most probably the heater core is clogged, happened to many... the best way to achieve a perfect result is to replace it as it's full of "stubborn" deposits after 20+ years, doable in situ with glovebox removed and some contorsionism and mechanical skills but if you are not up to that you can try...

definitely yes... you have to remobilise it with EKA code or fob to gain comms with the BCU... no diag tool can work with immobilised vehicle

Big misunderstanding cos ETC or TC are one and the same thing, LR called it officially ETC but it became TC for owners as it's simper to express but at the end both are "(electronic) traction control" so as lon as the (E)TC warning comes on with the buzzing means that the traction controll...

Hi, register to https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ and ask about a member named Offtrack or try to PM him but unfortunately it seems he's been missing for a while now(discotd5.com is his site).... i can log in there but i'm reluctant to share files from the site without his approval

IMO if you want to transform a well enhanced D2 into a Defender better sell it and buy a Defender ... no offence

They used to get very stuck by corrosion like welded, use some stronger compound that wd40 or heat or freeze and release spray and insist, there is not supposed to be anything else there

yes, the in tank LP pump and the HP(so called injection) pump, this one

You thought well ... as usual :) + the slide slope detection mode which is brilliant

IMO first of all you should study how the ACE works and how it was built to realise that it's better off-road than those with conventional ARBs as it gves you more flexibility especially that it's completely releasing the bars at very low speeds unless it goes to the "slide slope detection" mode...

I dont think they all have to be closed as it's not mentioned anywhere but if the circuit for a door is not there it's considered closed by the BCU as the door switches are N/O for closed door and they close to earth when the door is opened so open circuit on that path means closed door

No, and nanocom is useles as well untill it's immobilised so you'll have o remobilise it with EKA before you go to programming... i didnt try myself but i've seen some comments that you can read the EKA even if it's immobilised , i'm a bit unsure of that

check this out https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/device-to-measure-td5-fuel-pressure.125166/

o_O OMG what a mess, i wouldnt have thought of such thing... very strange that you didnt notice the low power though... now it must run as it should

Yes, you should try that if the fob doesnt work though a nanocom or similar would be compulsory for such work cos other BCU programmings are also necessary if the old D2 was not exactly with the same systems like the donor... are you 100% certain that the EKA code is the one saved in the BCU? i...

Not the IP(instrument pack) itself but the fact that it doesnt work makes me think that something is missing at the IDM cos that's part of the immobiliser.... the instrument pack should work without radio or other dash switches as long as it has earth and gets everything from the interior fusebox

There is a huge variety of them some of them reputable brands at decent price...i'd go for Moog if i was you but there is SKF or others as well https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/lr076692?search=OEN+LR076692

Hi, the main issue is actually there: so you'll have to double check what you missed at the interior fusebox which must power up the dash while it's a part of the immobiliser too in relation with the BCU, they must be sync'd to remobilise the vehicle and as long as no power to the IP something...

The ABS modulator has nothing to do with the suspension, if no warning or codes for SLS and the ORM light keeps flashing while the compressor is running but not rising you'll have to change the compressor's piston ring(many of them on ebay) ... doable in situ no need to remove the whole unit...

the outlet valve is within the modulator, unfortunately you can't physically check it nor bypass it but the real problem is that it's intermittent so you can't rule it out 100% with a continuity check if you don't catch the open circuit when it's current... as long as between C0501-1 and 0506-1...