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I plan to replace the engines rear main oil seal - I've the part here already. When I separate the IRD & G'box I need to replace that "O" ring as well. Are there any other seals that I would be wise to replace?

If, and I hope it isn't stuffed, but if it's glazed or worse can I use that flywheel off the VVC motor?

I have the earlier motor with the distributor so there is no crank sensor - pretty sure that's right. Let me know if I'm incorrect on that.

My clutch is on its way out. It has a slight judder when moving off and it's slipping when accelerating. I've got the parts coming from LRDirect... I prob' should also replace the flywheel but they are a hell of a price. Can someone both knowledgable and experienced tell me are the fly wheels...

When fitting new head bolts put a small amount of engine oil under the bolt's head before you slide it into place. Then tighten all as recommended by LR.

I'm guessing that it is the K series 1.8. I've replaced a h'gaskets myself. It is quite likely that the head gasket has failed. Other common failure points are the intake manifold gasket and possibly the coolant pump. If you have careful visual scan with a good light you may see staining from...

I had that problem recently. With the door card off I reached in and gave the door actuator gizmo a couple of taps with a screwdriver handle and then it opened as normal. I've since replaced that door actuator and gave the actual latch assembly a dust off before reassembly. See my post re' this...

Out with the old and in with the new. Rear door actuator replacement.

So my rear door's latch actuator is failing. Had to remove the door card with the door stuck shut - tricky but not impossible. In taking the card off I managed to break the left hand side 'clip' holders - snapped neatly off at their base. Scrappy wanted asked $200 [£100] for one - eek:{ So I...

Aye - Glenlivet Caribbean res' :D

I've got to do that job in the spring :|

OK, my penny-worth: To try and give it more power is quite doable. I've done quite a lot to my own FL1. You can read about it here on LZ. GG mentioned I fitted new springs - they are Dobonsons from Australia, along with some slightly taller tyres 215/75/15 MT's - those do give a smidgen more...

Hmm, interesting. I bought mine in 2014 with 187,000km. It's now past 330,000km and still has the original [ as in from new] alternator.

Where are you located?

My new replacement actuator just arrived today. ALR8702 Tailgate Door Actuator - ALR8702 - Genuine 1 £61.96 00 Below are some pic's of how it looks inside the door. It's the lower bit with the white plug...

Some photos to help: Should look like the 1st pic. But I've snapped off the holders as in the 2nd & 3rd pic - I want a good glue / adhesive to stick them on again. A replacement door card is a good idea but an auto dismantler is a 2 hour drive / 200+ km for me. That is a very kind offer G-...

I'm not glueing the actual rivet it's there molding on the door card which holds the rivet. When putting the door card back on you press the card firmly and those rivets go 'home' into their respective holes...

Sadly I've managed to break off the locator 'cups' on the rear door card. These are on the back of the card and hold the plastic pins in place - These pins then push into the plastic holders in the tail door itself. My questions are: What type of plastic is the Freelander's interior? OR What is...

I've done a driver's latch it wasn't too bad to do.

I've been looking at this as my own rear door was not co-operating. I initially looked at the micro switch in the actual door's handle. That was working when I tested it with my test meter. Noticed that one spring was broken - can we still buy these? Managed to get the door card off from...