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Today I realized the bleeding again by 2 screws (heater hose and engine front screw) and from engine I don´t see bubbles coming out. From heater screw some bubbles out. In garage with engine running, the temperature stays on 95ºC ~ 99ºC (min 92º/avg 99ºC/ max 106ºC) in 1h30 running. The radiator...

Hippo, thanks for answer. Looking at the topic of the link you send, my problem is the same as Ascension user, including this part of the engine runs ok in idle, but boil when down to street...

Hippo, Yes, the top hose from rad is rigid on high temperature. When I changed the thermostatic valve, I tested the pressurizing system with air and checking on the gauge the pressure. The system had no leaks.I put 10 PSI and gauge the pressure stays in 10 min test. If the pressure rises above...

Overheated again. After 1 hour working perfectly on garage at 100ºC, today I went out with the car and overheated after 5km. The temperature reaches 120ºC on scanner. Give up :(

Well, I've finished to mount all parts now. :D I purchased a new thermostat valve housing to prevent opening the intake manifold again and changed the gaskets. The engine heated up and placed 100°C at idle and when accelerating is oscillating between 94 and 100°C. When turn the air conditioning...

This part sold only in complete kit with heater hoses. (Part Number: PEH000223/PEH000224/PEH000250) I´ve fixed the valve using a nail and cutted one turn from spring. Inserting the part on hot water, the valve opens at ~80/90ºC and closes when cold. Let´s install again and try.

Found a problem!! There is a thermostat valve in return from heater and gearbox. The T connection is broken and the spring and valve are loose. Correct Name: Heater diverter valve (From 2003 Model Year)

Same problem here. My FR overheated and I´ve changed the timming belt, flush the coolant, tested the thermostat in hot water and water pump. Found too a "T" connection obstructed inside the radiator. After mounting all, the car works very well, starting the fans in 96ºC and engine temp stays in...

My car FR1 V6 also was overheating after about 15 minutes on. The problem was in a metal connection "T" between the expansion tank and radiator that was blocked by rust.

Hello, Try to find in Electric Manual Diagram, there is from Freelander 2004+, maybe is the same wiring: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fua76kzrbpbswcc/Freelander 2004MY - Electric Circuit Diagrams.pdf?dl=0

It is a good idea, but it´s necessary to keep the engine running for power steering pump and the vacuum brake booster.

I think I found the problem. After pass wax in the timing belt (using the tip of a candle), the water pump was not rotate with the screwdriver more. The wax has more grip on the belt and pump not skidded more. I´ll install the thermostatic housing and test again if the engine does not overheat...

I´m having overheating problems in my Freelander , but the cooling liquid level is not lowering. I suspect the water pump, it is possible to turn it with a screwdriver as video below. I do not know if timing belt (loose) that is slipping in pump or plastic impeller spinning false in the axis.

Hi all, My Freelander KV6 started to make some rattle in the inlet manifold, like the video below: My original topic: http://www.4x4brasil.com.br/forum/land-rover/146698-barulho-motor-freelander-2-5v6-tucho-so-que-nao.html After some tests, i drilled the ball joint and fixed the arm using...

I have same problem in my FL1 2006 (JF506e auto gear). The problem is intermittent, some times 3rd to 4th works perfectly and sometimes loss power and engine RPM increases. Anyone found a solution? :( Thanks