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Tomorrow I´ll remove rear head and check if both is flat. If not, I'll send to skimming. I will not change liners because they are expensive in my country, and I don´t have necessary tools to remove the piston and rings. The cost for repair this engine here is very high because the need to...

I caught crankshaft with pinlock. Tomorrow I will try to remove the rear head disconnecting the underneath mount and pull the engine forward

After a bit work, removed the front cylinder head. Found a coolant fluid in cylinder 5, as expected.

Start to remove the front cylinder head to change the gasket (V6). Missing E12 torx socket to remove the bolts.

Yes.

Today after removed all coolant, removed the intake manifold and pressurized the system, found a leak in cylinder 5. Now this must be the problem. The front head is easy to remove but rear is more dificult. I´ll release the engine a bit down to remove the exaust bolts, underneath is hard to...

I make some tests changing the top hoses to a transparent hose. In front cylinder head, a lot of bubbles come out to reservoir. I don´t have the compression tester, but try to find a one. The chemical test I not finding to sell here. Tomorrow I´ll remove the front sparkplugs to see if there a...

I think the problem is the HGF. I opened the reservoir now the night and saw a small smoke with exhaust smell. B34R said about the sniff test, but I got it wrong because of translation into Portuguese. :D I will buy a transparent hose and will change the output of the intake manifold. So I´ll...

I had this idea to remove the valve from housing, but if have a obstruction in some cylinder head for example, it will destroy the engine when at full load. I'm wondering if I will fix this engine or make a swap for a diesel engine with manual transmission. I'm also problem in Jatco box too...

The hoses are connected properly and tested by inserting water to see if it was not obstructed. The radiator is ok too, the top hose is hot but bottom hose is cold. The problem it's like a failure thermostatic valve or flow problem, but has been replaced and tested in the pan with hot water...

I make the sniff test and no leaking detected at 12PSI pressure in coolant system. I already bought a new thermostatic valve and changed it. There's no way to leave without it is a entire part with multiple connections.

No luck, after engine warmed, in a climb when I used 30% of engine load, it overheated (120ºC). I don´t know what to do. In idle after overheated, temp stays at 108ºC.

No luck, after engine warmed, in a hill when I used 30% of engine load, it overheated (120ºC). I don´t know what to do now.

All parts assembled in place. :) In garage tests, the temp reimaned in 99ºC ~ 101ºC on idle for long time and 96°C ~ 99°C varying RPM. Tomorrow we will see if it works. I´ll go with OBD scanner connected to monitoring the temperature.

It´s possible to open the collector and fix the arm from butterflies, but requires a lot of time.

The seal from oil stick tube is in bad condition, if put that way the oil will be dripping in the garage. Tomorrow buy a new seal.

Today I bought a new water pump and installed on KV6. After I pressurized the system with 12PSI and put detergent bubbles outside the pump to check for any leaks. The sealing is ok. Installed the timing belt with pulleys in the marks and released the pin lock placed on the hydraulic tensioner...

I didn´t changed the tensioner, but my mechanic when changed the timmingbelt, was removed the pulley from support. I checked the belt tension was good before removing this time. Here is my tensioner config now:

I checked the belt tension before remove and seems to be good. Today I went to buy the water pump, but is holiday in another state that imports the part; Only on Monday now.

No, the axis of the pump is ok, but maybe with belt installed, the strength makes it to warp.