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So, front oil seals are getting there, one seems sorted after removing the seized hub nut horror thanks to @beanwood . Mr Haynes says to put locking sealant, akin to locktite 648 on the rear hub splines. Does this apply to the front too? Is this worth doing? Just out of curiosity, what does it...

I think practically every landy I looked at before I bought mine had that sort advisory on it. Have a good butchers underneath and as said above, make an educated decision. Mrs BN’s dad bought a defender tipper recently, oh my the rust warnings on that mot history eeeek. It had all been...

That would be great! That’s very kind cheers. Depending on timings and work etc... I can always hop over to bath rather than you doing all of the leg work.

Lol sorry I’m in Trowbridge, that’s very kind of you to offer! Cheers. I would like to take you up on that.

Nice avatar btw, gotta love a Case!

I can cut the tube down if it’s too much of a beast??? I might have a chat with the head of motor vehicle at the college I work at, see if he will lend me a 3/4 bar and socket. You have me worrying now with mental images of snapping bars and flying shrapnel eeeeek.

Yep, I’ve hear not to use the ones with more sides with a lot of torque. I imagine it’s to spread the load force over the whole side rather than just the corners? (Go easy on the noob if I’m wrong lol). Pretty much gonna use this one (pic)

Right I’ve got seven feet of scaf pole from my mates garden, this will not defeat me lol! I’ll give it a nudge with the 1/2 inch breaker, if it snaps it will be 3/4 inch time on payday. Thanks for the post so far guys, I appreciate the help!

I’m in the worlds of Wiltshire. Funny enough I had a look at some impact wrenches today whilst I was out, can’t afford til payday lol!

Good call actually, is the bar itself thicker on a 3/4? My tame mechanic friend runs a garage that fixes vans etc... he said if I tighten them up as far as I can and take it to his garage he’ll torque them up and stake them for free.

Nope I’ve only got a 1/2” until I’ve got paid! Reckon that would sort it?

Trying to do the drive shaft oil seals on my disco two, as always it’s a mission! Hub nut won’t budge, it doesn’t look like it has been staked by whoever put it on so I don’t think it’s that. Breaker, jack under breaker, hitting socket with a mallet, running out of options. If I get the torch...

Fecking hub nut, won’t budge... even had the breaker bent under the jack aaaaaaaah!

Started to replace the oil seals on the front drive shafts. Actually I just spent half an hour standing and on a breaker bar trying to undo the hub nut. Hasn’t even been staked by whoever changed them last. It’s having an evening of penetrating oil with a bag taped over it to stop the local...

Removed and replaced one of the offending articles that was making my truck sound like a cage of angry cockatiels when I was driving... Still got one angry bird in there, probs the idler, that felt a bit crunchy, one for later...

Yep, I have those, but to no avail, it was properly seized. Asked my mechanic friend at the local garage, he recommended using an air chisel, eeeek. I didn’t go full welly on it, just gave it some sharp taps lol, no damage. I read on here that if you do that on each flat on the nut it tends to...

Strangely simple, I just got a 14mm socket on it and a breaker bar and it was fine... think I’ve got too used to jobs on the truck being a proper ball ache, so this one made me worry lol. Standard thread and all! Think the hardest part was convincing the viscous fan bolt to un seize with the...

Belt and fan off, happy days! About to remove the knackered old tensioner unit. Is it really just one bolt in the middle of the housing??? This seems pretty simple to me so I’m worried lol! Also is it normal thread, I.e lefty loosey?

My local garage quoted 300 quid in labour for the job on my disco. I’m pretty happy with that as it’s a bit of a beast of a job, fairly involved from what I have read.

That’s what she said when she locked the front door.