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Pictures would help but to me that sounds like a badly corroded sill.

Because I had a buzzer fitted to it already and the wiring is close by the coolant bottle....

Order a PRC7925. This is for the Range Rover but fits the 300TDi. Th stalk has a reed switch that is triggered by a magnet. When it arrives, the reed works the wrong way round - that is a high water condition shorts the contacts. What you want is the other way round - high water keeps...

N47 diesels. They have condition based servicing so it measures the oil acidity I presume. Town driving I used to get a service request from it at about 12-14k, but now almost pure motorways it's up to 30k - long runs, not much stop start and it's happy as anything. Needs a proper LL04 oil for...

30000 mile intervals on my BMW and it's happy as anything....

I'd take it up, Im down there late Nov for a holiday anyway :). Joking aside, as others have said 5/30 ACEA B3 oil for the 2.4tdci. These have a really small oil filter too - you MUST always swap it every time, otherwise it'll lunch the timing chain and that's expensive and tragic. I presume...

My money is on wading and water ingress as above....

That's your best bet I would imagine by far if it's terminally bad and needs attending to.

I'd see if you can find a commercial vehicle place - a replacement head for it shouldn't be too hard to source and fit and they will have the experience and be better than a stealers...

Im a little confused here - if the immobiliser is working then it should also cut power to the starter solenoid but you say it cranks over fine? I'd have though if the engine spins OK and doesn't fire, especially since the fobs open the doors then you have another issue entirely causing starting...

Temp sensor first. Id' then be looking at the fluid cooler and checking that the fins were not clogged up - if so you can usually reverse flush the fins with a hose. I had immense fun in Romania rodding my cooling fins clear of mud and caked on muck that was causing an overheat...

About time they started getting serious. The number of diesels that are blowing coal out the back when they clearly should have a DPF is not a small number.

Start at the plugs and work back to the fault - if no sparks at plugs does the centre lead to the dissy have a spark when held close to the block. If no sparks there, put a bulb across the low voltage side to the coil and turn by hand to see if it lights... put a bulb in series with the LV coil...

Care to advise why with a years NCD extra you almost quadrupled the premium...?

So Flux decided to increase my premium by a factor of 4.... Despite another years NCD... Yeah. Wont be renewing that's just taking the micky. Who else would people recommended for a modified D1 as a second car on 10k a year?

Presumably with the diff lock engaged the transmission brake is working ok? Just be sure they know to test it on the front wheels not the rear wheels.... I know someone who has a Hippo and he's tested it a couple of times now as a 2WD he keeps breaking something the week before the MOT!

Why would a synthetic oil be thinner than a mineral oil? At the same viscosity number they are - unsurprisingly - the same thickness.... Bore glazing shouldn't be an issue once run in, and that can be an issue with modern synthetics and "traditional" bore honing techniques but that's not a...

I don't have a Jag... that's someone else. As for "designed" for mineral or synthetic - that's a total red herring. Engines are designed for certain tolerances and then an oil which will maintain appropriate flow rates, film stability and shear, shock loading and contact scuff etc is chosen...

They have different part numbers (ERR1333 - 200tdi and ERR3336 - 300tdi) So I would not expect them to..

4by41 in Wakefield are landrover specialists - it's a bit of an old school garage but they have a good rep round here for green oval stuff. The only problem you would have would be a long wait they are often in high demand.