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Well, the windscreen finally arrived not long before the Shetland Classic Car Show so I ended up fitting it myself. To make things as easy as possible for myself I built a platform to work from as it's impossible to do it yourself from the ground. Spent hours prepping and about two minutes...

1. The number of holes punched in the edge of the gasket refers to the gasket thickness. There are 3 available I believe. There is a bit of protruding gasket that you can see somewhere around the head but I can't remember where. You'll be able to see how many holes are in it. 3. Follow the...

Have a look in this thread.

On mine there's a blank grommet right next to the main wiring loom where it passes through the bulkhead on the passenger side. If you wanted to mount your fuse box internally this would be an easy way to route your wires. It's not so easy to get at normally as the bulkhead soundproofing covers...

They both sit in their own mounting brackets which are spot welded to the inner wings. Demount the brackets and attach mounting points for them on your tube frame so they sit in roughly the same place.

When you say "managed to unplug" do you mean it was accidental? Perhaps stretched the wire? I'd say the first thing to do would be to replace that sensor.

It would seem that way. Awfully sorry.

Forgot to check this after work yesterday. Just done it this evening. Bonnet closed - no honking. Now I know what that switch is for on the passenger side inner wing. Thanks people.

Ah. A light has gone on in my head. I shall close the bonnet and try again...

Every time I lock the doors on my project Disco the horn sounds for a split second. I thought that this was just some feedback so you knew the car was locked but having RTFM it seems that the car is "mislocking". I assume that because I no longer have any rear doors and have just cut out all of...

Does it still "clunk" when you activate central locking? Might just be the lever that goes from the actuator mechanism to the actual lock that has come loose.

Could mean the rods/bushes in the control arms. Replacing a whole control arm is quite easy but expensive. Replacing a bush is difficult without a decent press. Either way the control arm needs to be removed to do it. Could you not have asked the tester to clarify?

Idler pulley bearing? Slacken off the belt and give it a jiggle. Should be no movement at all.

I'd start with the throttle pedal. It's just a variable resistor. Easy to check if you have access to a spare one to test.

Been busy doing mainly cosmetic stuff with Project Disco over the last few days as I want it looking as good as possible for the Shetland Classic Car Show (4th & 5th June). It'll be going on a trailer unfortunately as I'm back on shift tomorrow for two weeks and I'll only have a couple of days...

Just a small update today. The Disco came with chequer plate on the bonnet when I bought it. I removed it during the build as it wasn't lined up properly. So today I lined it up properly, redrilled the rivet holes and painted them both before refitting it. You can see how far out it was by the...

I put M14 120 bolts in mine. They're a bit long and protrude about 10 - 15mm through the captive threaded tube in the top of the chassis. M14 100 or thereabouts should do the job.

Been another busy couple of days. Here's the latest progress update: Chequer plate bed floor now riveted down. Battery compartment cover fastened down with stainless steel tapered allen head bolts. Fuel pressure regulator leak fixed. Stripped the area under the windscreen to take out the wiper...

About £150 each for good condition.

The motors are inside the light unit so to do anything with them I'd need to open them up. Given the ridiculous price of 2nd hand units, never mind new, I was hoping to be able to fix them.