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With the welding done I put the rear bumper together to allow me to refit it: Rather than faff about trying to fix the captive thread fixings that once sat in the plastic for the side brackets I drilled through and just used button head stainless bolts as the head easily sit behind the...

A busy week and a bit working on it nearly solidly and I've still failed to get it running :( It is fighting me all the way... The welding of the sill came out pretty well, but I did have to do a bit of hole chasing because I should perhaps have cut back to thicker section completely clean...

Yes, I have discovered that already...two have snapped their 'clips' so I shall investigate ways to fix them if at all possible

I'm doing away with the folded seam on the repair section and welding in a web to take the trim clips, plus giving everything a good coat of paint then Waxoyl before plugging the access holes with their bungs. Pondering putting in a drain too and leaving that open somehow.

Hum, I've not looked inside the boot area since I disconnected the battery as I've not been able to open the boot to lift the false floor. It was quite dry in there when I got the car and I know it had been stored outside for quite a while, so one would have thought a leak would have presented...

Logically a blocked drain would make sense except I don't have a sunroof on mine...

I think that part of the problem is that water runs down into the sill and puddles in the seam as in my case it had rotted out from the inside out, the sill finisher barely had any muck in it, while the paint on the seam looked fine but the metal just crumbled away when I started properly taking...

A few weeks back a chap I know from another Forum (one I use for discussing our motly collection of agricultural and construction plant) who also owns a '95 P38 DSE mentioned his had just failed its MoT on a rotten rear sill end...foolishly I took a closer look at my nearside rear sill end as...

On my return the following weekend the EAS tank got a good coat of Tractol 927 zinc rich primer and a top coat of Truck Bed liner paint. It's now back on the chassis and plumbed in, and the EAS Pump along with the Distribution Block I started all this work with refurbing are also refitted and...

Various activities over the past few weekends, and as I'm on leave till the 10th January I'm determined to get everything finished and the Range Rover at least to an MoT by then! Pics from the weekend of the inlet manifold removal and before pulling the NGK Glow Plugs: Then with the new Beru...

Am back down in Kent for the weekend and despite the dark I've been out and removed the inlet manifold to access the glow plugs. The manifold has clearly been off before because just like the rocker cover I found a loose fixing, this time the securing nut on cylinder 5. Who ever did the job...

Yes...but haven't had anything like the time to work on it as I needed to as I really wanted it running by now to help me move all my other projects back to Kent from North Hampshire... To be fair for 26+ years and 225k miles that the body mount and bumper support was all the rot on it seems...

To replace the bumper support bar I got given a contact with a large sheet metal folding hydraulic press break and from an off cut of 2mm thick x 2300mm long plate had a channel folded up 100mm deep at the top, 90 degree (inside) bend into 115mm tall vertical then a 105 degree (inside) bend back...

Cheers, the photo's don't really show just how awkward it is to get into that corner to weld either, while it's not the pretiest I do know that what I've put in is good and strong! In accessing the body mount and to make sure there weren't any other horros lurking round that area I decided to...

I think that loctite tip was in the manual as it's not the first time I've heard it and that I did do it...final torquing of the nuts is waiting for the moment I get the wheels back on. There's more welding/fabrication madness to come ;)

Repair panel offered up and everything trimed to weld in: Welded in: Ground back and Jenolited to wotsit: Not shown is the liberal coating of the Polyeurthane Zin primer, seam sealer and stone chip to tidy it all up

With the rot cut out (there was a lot hiding behind the rubberised underseal) I made a template from card to make up a complete repair panel: The repair panel was fabricated from 1.5mm thick sheet steel, it was never intended to be a perfect piece to look like a pressing, just something to...

And now we come to the horrors lurking at the back on the near side rear of the car behind the bumper, mud guards and arch liners, discovered while being me and cleaning the chassis off and giving it a wipe down with ACF50 and my hand disapeared into the car: Near side rearmost bodymount...

The disc backplates have had a Christmas too and have been repainted, but just to show the effects of Bilt Hamber Deox-C here's a half and half sequence showing how well it removes the rust:

Ahh, and now I know, cheers :D