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Well back to square one. Genuine bearing came. And it’s no different from the others. This was the listed one on Britcar Goes in the block fine but it’s no where near for the cam still. Put my callipers on and zero them the measured the cam and it’s 28 thou bigger. Am I doing anything wrong...

Yeah I’ve read some of them. It’s a bit confusing. I can’t understand why you would ream it ? and only the one, when it’s got white metal on it.

Thanks for that. If this one that’s coming is no good I think I’ll try the pre finished ones.

The one I removed was straight and I presumed that was original. The two I got , one was a jigsaw joint and the other straight. But neither fit. It’s got me scratching my head

Hi all I’m on with a build (not a bobtail ) I’m on rebuilding the engine. I took the cam out and there was wear on the front bearing so I changed them. Back and middle two went fine but the front bearing is far too tight. It’ll go in the block but The cam won’t go in. The cam will go in from...

Well I’ve started to pull the engine to bits to rebuild it. It was running fine but when I’m this far in I thought I may as well do it. Got the block cleaned up masked up and painted. I was getting on canny with the head. Looked good so I clean the ports then removed the cast marks from them...

Th t Thanks for them pictures I’ve order a couple of bends for the flexy’s to pull them off the chassis now. I’ve already got the mud shields. But like you say now I’ve looked with the wheels on they’ll not do much good

Great. Thanks for that

I’m on piping then back brakes. I think the runs look right from the callipers to the bracket on the diff. But the mud shields aren’t on yet. And I’ve done away with the anti roll bars on the back. I’ll put some dislocation cones on But I couldnt seem to find extended hoses individually. So...

Thanks very much Steve

Had a busy weekend rebuilding the axles and diffs. Biut got her on her feet. Seems ok so far

After a bit head scratching I think I’ve got the back axles sorted. I bored some bar out and made up a double bush on the middle axle trailing arms. I think this will stop it twisting with removing the A frame from it. Time will tell. Shortened the chassis mount for the panhard arm and and a...

With regards to thermal bridging. I’m in the building trade and have to deal with in in loft conversations etc. You’d normally insulted across the inner surface. With a box section you could drill 10mm holes say 400mm apart. And fill the cavity with expanding foam it would also expel the air...

Cheers for pointing that out. Thought about it and realised the axles could rotate a bit under load with the A Frame not there stop to it. Looked at some pictures of a p38 axle as they have panhard bars and their trailing arms are different. So I’m having a play about with making a bracket on...

The bracket of the front did work out. So I made one. I’ve set it up off the panhard rod from the front. But I’ve ordered an adjustable one to give me a bit wiggle room

I started to have a go today at changing the middle axles from a A Frame to a panhard arm set up. I think it will work ok. I’ve used 25mm solid bar and 10mm plate and made a bracket up. It’s not finished yet but I think that should be strong enough. I’ll make another bracket and weld it to the...

It’s going to look great that. I’m wanting to keep the diffs on the same side. I’ll rotate the axle nose up slightly on the back axle and chance to overfill it slightly to keep the pinion bearing wet. I don’t want the prop coming off the axle in front it. So I don’t have sort of two lots of...

Yeah. I did think about that too just wasn’t sure what it would be like. Yes the D2 has a watts linkage on them not the A frame

I’m thinking about doing away either the A frame for the first rear axle and put A Panhard rod on it instead , so I have room over it for the prop to the second rear axle. I had a look on line and there’s kits for D2’s for that. would there be any issues doing that but leaving the A frame on...