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Mine was the same, you must set the SLABS ecu to coils with a Nanocom or similar. Magically, your problem will disappear!!

Hi, all is well thanks! When I was looking to replace the prop, I didn't have time and probably not the facilities to repair it, I went round in circles trying to confirm the part number - there are so many discussions on the internet but nothing definitive. I was going to get a prop from one...

I would check the intake from the breather to the inlet manifold for oil, they run a little damp, just to be sure it’s not the turbo seal starting to fail or oil from the breather as the oil was a little low. Fairly simple first step probably.

There have been a number of different part numbers for the front props, but they all now seem to drill down to the one fitted to the automatic, sometimes know as "heavy duty". We had a brief discussion https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-front-output-bearing.379134/ . As I was...

Could the camshaft have seized?

As an aside, at the current drain quoted in the WSM, you should be able to leave the battery connected for a couple of months before it is even 1/2 discharged. Maybe you have an unexpected drain?

To support what Fery said, once the battery voltage falls much below 12v, the battery will degrade chemically very quickly and can be ruined within a few hours, or very few days. As you will probably need a new charger anyway you have nothing to loose to get a decent intelligent one which is...

Yes, and the 6mm tube came with the pump and fits down the dipstick tube fine. But as mentioned, make sure the oil is warm, not hot, or it will take ages.

Because I can't get the sump plug out on mine I've always used a battery (12V) suction pump with the pipe (6mm) down the dipstick hole. I got mine down the local cheapy supermarket (Lidl), but they seem available widely. Don't know about Oz though.

It's a bit of a wriggle, but you can connect the battery charger "+" to the starter motor battery cable and the battery charger "-" to any convenient earth point on the chassis. Or perhaps, fashion some sort of wire hook to pull the passenger door handle.... Good luck.

Sorry to see your ltest problem after all the work you have put in. I guess you have already seen this?

Good luck. I hope this garage knows the correct oil fill and check procedure.

You can just pop rivet the access plate back on. A pop riveter and a packet of pop rivets won't cost you a fortune. It's probably easier than trying to remove the P clip from underneath.

Take a look at this https://www.landroversonly.com/threads/trans-harness-replacement-on-03-disco-auto-v8.156902/ You can see the relevant part of the harness from underneath the car if you look up and a bit over to the nearside from where the transmission brake is. I've recently put some...

Well done, fingers crossed all goes well for you now.:):)

Yes, it can be done, I have not done it, so we may need to wait for the wisdom of Ferry:) or someone who has done it.

Yes, but the seal in the cylinder head, the other end of the oil feed pipe, could leak I suppose. As far as I know, that is the only oily bit on that side. If you have a 15P engine there is also the fuel return from the head to the FPR in that area, but I guess you would smell the diesel. But...

Depends which you call front and back:) The vacuum pump is the pulley end and is "part" of the alternator. There is an oil feed pipe from the cylinder head, the union with the alternator is known to leak, and oil drain back to the block via a rubber pipe. Not long done mine. You need to get...

Good news all went well with the cooling system:) but what are the symptoms that make you think the torque converter is on the way out?:( Have you done a "stall test"?

Auto? Sounds a bit like mine, but I don’t think mine got Covid!:) However, have you checked the engine mounts? I know the mounts on mine are getting past it looking at the hole underneath, there is not the expected 10mm gap to the rubber and I can feel a slight vibration through my feet which...