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OK, the only suggestion I have at the moment is to check the engine ECU plugs and see if you can get to the gearbox loom around that P-clip and maybe move it a bit. Maybe others have ideas? Good luck.

Can you clear the fault with the Hawkeye? I only have a Nanocom, so can't advise about the Hawkeye.

Has this a few years back. Switched off and left a few hours (I had to, I'd just driven onto a ferry). Came back, all OK and hasn't returned since. Is it permanent? The CANbus is for communication between the gearbox ECU and the engine ECU, so it may be worth checking the engine ECU...

If you haven’t seen it already, it’s worth looking at this: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector%20Seals.html

I did as above. I also put a small pipe into each cylinder through the injector hole and sucked any remaining diesel up the pipe at each TDC. There was a very small amount in each cylinder. And as a double double check I turned the engine over a few times with a spanner on the crank pulley...

I would get "live data" from the XYZ switch from the Nanocom and compare it with what it should be in RAVE. Depending on what version Nanocom you have, it may have WXYZ reversed, mine did. May give you a clue what the EAT is objecting to. The table from RAVE is attached. Good luck.

About 5 years ago I replaced the front swivels on mine and replaced the seals at the same time. I bought FTC4822.C8 from lrdirect. I bought 3 as I thought there was a chance I would damage one on fitting, which, amazingly, I didn’t. These have been fine since. I’ve just been out rummaging...

I’ve just done mine. I removed a pipe first to check the flare, which is a DIN type. I used a tool very similar to the one you list. It made flares identical to the ones on the original pipe. I also used copper/nickel pipe. Good luck, routing the pipe across the rear to do the O/S rear...

Not sure if it can trigger the 3 Amigos, but there is one behind the air box which is associated with the SLABS. I’m sure it was part of a bulletin. Maybe I can find it.

Check where the pipes run over the rear spring turrets. The pipes are almost hidden and that’s where mine rusted through and all the fluid went. Filling the reservoir had no effect, it needed proper bleeding to get fluid through. I used a hand vacuum pump to start with, then the Nanocom. Good...

Seems to be www.d2bc.net now.

👍👍👍

Same with Chrome too.

Up to now, I've been using my iPad. Just tried the laptop (Linux) and got straight in. Odd!

Me too now.

It’s been like that for 3 or 4 days now. Would be sad if they just shut it and migrated to Facecloth without saying anything.

Wondering that myself!

Unfortunately, I don't have any photos. Where the car was returned by the recovery truck was a bit of an obstruction, so I just had to get it running and back into the drive as quickly as possible. There is a write-up that may give you a good idea here...

“A pit” generally. I wish I had your garage…..

Yes, I’ll try to remember that if I have to take it apart again!