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Well, that won’t help! Let’s hope you have solved it.

That's a difficult one. The fuel pressure from the HP side of the pump to your pressure gauge should all be the same at 4 bar, give or take a smidgen for flow resistance in the pipes. There is a bit of a clue here, that you are measuring about 17mV across the fuse, which, see post #10, should...

If both gauges are showing the same pressure, it would be very unlikely they are faulty in exactly the same way. You have changed the pump and it’s the same. I would say it’s more likely the FPR is faulty, even though it was replaced a month ago. Just my opinion. Cheers.

Yes, you can see it from underneath. I wrapped mine with “spiral wrap”, as an extra covering in that area before it actually damaged the loom.

Well done! Was that one of the wires in the loom near the P clip?

Thank you for that, that’s useful information. When checking to see if the connector was properly seated, it seems the wiring was quite rigid.

Thank you. Not the easiest part to get to!

Hi, Today I was tracking the cause of an oil leak (probably rocker cover gasket) and gave the area thorough dousing with brake cleaner to get rid of all the oily mess so I could see the leak. Most oil was at the rear FPR side of the engine which got most brake cleaner, and all over the bell...

Before going down the really expensive route, have you changed the injector seals? They are normally associated with poor starting but can cause all sorts of issues. It’s a quick and cheap job.

Thank you. Hopefully there is enough German in the filter to be OK. It looks well enough made. I've always used Mann for the rotary, but this time it has Made in UK on it. We'll see!

Hi All, It's oil change time again, at half the LR recommended interval. I ordered the 2 filters from one of the well know suppliers, Mann for the rotary and Mahle for the cartridge one. I thought the Mahle was a good quality German item but it has "Made in China" on both the box and the...

On mine, if you unlock using the key, the alarm goes off when you open the door. I always lock using the key. Seems someone may have changed the "factory settings". As the red light on the fob is working, it is trying to transmit, it could be the RF receiver in the roof, just forward of the...

This doesn't look right, 0.26mA is unrealistically low. Looking at the first picture, it seems like you have the meter connected incorrectly. The meter is set to mA but the red lead is in the A, not the VΩmA socket. Take care, most meters have a protection fuse, so if your drain is above...

Have you checked the idle current after 30 - 90 minutes after any door activity? It should be around 20mA or less.

+1 ^^ Back in the Covid lockdown days I had a similar problem as I was using the car rarely. It took little time to discover which fuse had excessive idle current. Your “electrical expert” should have been able to do the same. The car must be idle for 30 to 90 minutes with no door activity...

Agreed. 5 years ago I bought 3 x FTC4822.C8 from lrdirect. I used 2 and have measured my spare one. It measures 36mm. The 2 I fitted are still ok.

When the M&S lights are on, the oil pressure in the ‘box is maximum and this does cause quite a clonk going into reverse. Just a thought, before starting, move the gear lever from P to 1 a few times. This may “clean” the switch contacts. Worked on mine when it had the M&S P0705 habit.

Welcome to the asylum! Firstly, a Nanocom, or very similar, is an essential part of owning a D2!! You will save its cost many times over, probably in the first month of ownership. The sunroofs of my D2 are also haunted, possibly a D2 "feature". Sometimes they do the opposite of what the...

Very pleased it is OK now, but that was the same as mine, we were on the ferry for 6 hours and when started all was fine. Didn't put the Nanocom on it until we'd reached our destination. That was 5 years ago and no repeat since.

How far from home are you as the 'box will be in limp home mode?