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If you’ve replaced the input (switch) and output (actuator), then the next step would be checking the wiring, especially the connector under the passenger seat as mentioned above. I traced everything back to the BCM, which is behind the glovebox. Beyond that, battery change or hard reset?

Thanks. Looks like the LOF ones are well regarded. Can I get away with pulling the gearbox/transfer box back on the cross member, as a whole unit?

The 90 is on 110,000 miles and the clutch is starting to judder, also lots of noise from the release bearing. It’s never let me down in 15 years, so I’m prepared to spend a bit. Parts: - Valeo clutch kit? I’d rather stick with a DMF so happy to replace that, unless someone strongly recommends...

Yes @mattyjee the new actuator fixed it. Resetting the system sometimes works because of the overload shutdown mentioned above.

Thanks. I’ll look forward to that at the weekend.

Sounds wonderful. Did you get hissing on acceleration/boost leak messages?

I saw your pic on the Disco3 forum. Can you get to the pipe with body on, and if so, how?

Thanks, I’ll give that a try. Do you think the exhaust gas smell could be coming via the EGR then?

Over 200k miles now. Previously had secondary turbo actuator faults, ‘fixed’ with replacement diverter valve and poking at the secondary turbo actuator itself (last year). Now has a pronounced hiss on acceleration that sounds like it’s from the air vents, smell of exhaust gas in cabin, some...

Well, you think you know someone... Seemed alright to me, but then we never really crossed swords, other than early on when I had a hard job convincing him about something to do with a handbrake fault.

What happened? We were having an interesting pm discussion about an electric fence energiser I was making, then he just dropped off the radar. Nice chap, I thought.

Phoned up MMP and got DM himself! Very helpful chap. He thought, with the exhaust smell, that it might be an EGR/crossover pipe that would mean a body off, but the price wasn’t too bad. Might run it down there. With the body off he can sort: - Brake pipes - The timing chains at the back rattle...

I’ve checked as far as I can see, which isn’t very far. Smoke machine - good idea. I’ve been toying with the idea of getting the engine swapped. There’s a certain Disco Mikey on the D3 forum, not a million miles from me who seems to do these things. Maybe it’s time for that, as the rest of the...

Over 200k miles on it, and there’s a whooshing sound coming from the left side of the engine bay (from driver’s perspective) when accelerating. No fault codes/black smoke, mpg normal for now. Is there a common place for split on these? I can’t see anything obvious. There’s a bit of a smell of...

Looking to trace the wiring, but can’t find locations for these valves and the RLM on the Disco 4. Is there a common failure point for the harness?

Fixed. It was the actuator. Apparently it draws excess current as it fails, triggering an overcurrent lock-out in the BCM (but no error codes or indications that this is happening).

I’ve found a two-wire connector (3007/8) under the passenger seat that handles the upper and lower tailgate actuators. No output on the upper side. It looks like the driving FET is dud. Next stage is either remove the BCM and attempt a board repair, or rig up a separate system.

Done this (except step 5) and the problem is still there. At least I’ve ruled out battery problems. So I know the ‘open’ signal gets to the BCM, but the pulse to the actuator doesn’t always arrive. Wiring is good from the tailgate back to about halfway to the BCM. Next thing would be to obtain...

I would recommend the Enduroline battery fitted to my Def Td5 - 3 years of short journeys, winch operation, left for months on end once and it still kicked the engine round like it was on the motorway yesterday. Brilliant.

I think the AGM type battery is for a stop-start version, which mine isn’t.