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The outcome is i couldnt be arsed to remove the glove box to get to the relay so its on the back burner its in for paint this week and the LPG seems to have wired up by a complete retard so im looking at having someone rewire it properly or install a new LPG loom and ECU. then the cayenne needs...

The key to purchasing any used vehicle, particularly a Range Rover is keep budget aside for repairs. A 10 year old plus complex vehicle is going to need remedy in some way or another and you have to do your homework and know what you are purchasing and potential fails and potential repair cost

not to too finer point on it. but the garage said it wasn't faulty, yet it was on the bump stops and not coming up. errrr. that's faulty. as mentioned above the sensors are sealed units. he cleaned them.. is the EAS working now or not ? you may have purchased it because you like the look on...

Rear wiper washer is the motor unit.. common fail. Barke Pad wire and airbag are not interconnected. EAS not sure about.. still getting to grips with my L322

Not unless you cam slide a V8 through the centre of the fan. It's no big problem unto undo the coupling nut.

What you could do is pop into halfords and have a look at their paint Range and select one that matches. If you flutter your eyelashes and leave your keys at the till they'll let you take the can outside to check. If you say please and thank you of course

The heated seat loop tends to break at the rear of the cushion. BikeTeacherDave did a write up on repairing them. It's worth uprating the heat when you do it. should be in the tech archive

Ahh but suspension isn't just suspension. The classic has different set up with the V frame and Boge self levelling unit. Not wishing to get into yet another air/coil debate but the P38 set up is structured to work on air so you'll always be behind the handling capabilities. For example look...

yeah that's a bit far.. even for apples. have you tried NFU for insurance ?

Where are you located ? happy to lend a hand from time to time if you are not too far away.

Have you looked in the manual ? :D:p:p:D;)

250NM IIRC. I went to a local garage so used their 'big berths impact gun. Gave them a tenner for the drink fund they would it up to 100NM for the short hop home. did it all back up and went round again for them to wind it back up to 250NM.

what you may find is that the Bluetooth module is shot. they often get water / moisture damage. you may need a replacement. check the part number on it here's the link to the Bluetooth specialist on the subject. some can be upgraded or you can replace certain module numbers with others...

really ! cheers for the info.

and one whinge telling the OP to RTFM (which the problem faced isn't in the owners manual) :rolleyes:

if the HGs have gone it doesn't need a new block. remove the ancillaries , pull the rocker covers, pull the manifolds, pull the inlet manifold, coil packs, pull the heads. about 4 hours to pull the heads and in parts probably about 200-300 approx. when I did mine I replaced most of the bolts...

Modern life unfortunately. I would much rather be listening to the tuneful V8 exhaust note with the added hint of supercharger on my route to customer site work each week, however I have two conference calls during the drive resulting in the need for Bluetooth connectivity in the RR.

Dear Sir, I am distressed at the lack of letter writing. DISGUSTED OF TUNBRIDGE WELLS! :D:p

Hall sensor the water pump pully is a smaller in diameter to the main pully giving ratio. so it would give a fan speed higher than the crank speed. im not sure if the electonics just measure the speed or provide clutch engagement. I suspect not as that would moot the viscous couple need.

after bedding the new discs on the L322 re set the parking brake adjustment. gave it a clean. carted a new washing machine home in it took the old one to the dump in it. vacummed it out. looked at removing the glovebox to get to the approach light relay behind the fusebox, though sod it...