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You can try these online LR cats. Annotated in Russian & English but they are the originals and 100% accurate - http://new.lrcat.com http://cat.lrparts.ru

Unfortunately I don't have the circuit diagrams with me at the moment but I'm assuming that when you say solid earth, you are referring to the chassis reference ground and not a separate negative rail. If so, this is the reason why I'm thinking that those door switches are simply being used to...

Diagram in post #6 seems to indicate that the door switches are wired to provide the BCU with logic inputs. From experience, there are many reasons why you shouldn't use a logic bus as a power rail unless it is specifically designed for that purpose.

Mine, which is a BP, is like the bottom one, with pointed grips instead of flat contacts. And I did end up filing the grips a little bit so I can use it on various filter brands. Given the location of the oil filter on the TD5, it holds the filter at a slight angle but there is enough grip to...

I use an oil spanner - it's simple, cheap and although it's a Britpart (DA1117), it does work and is still in one piece ! Also, go easy with the bolts for the centrifugal filter cover as they are know to strip the threads on the housing.

There is but the LCD backlight is dimmed once the lights are turned on. There's a good post here that covers what you need and more : https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/173544-disco-2-replacing-dashboard-atc-digital-clock-bulbs.html

If the Bosch EMS behaves like other ECUs, P1000 simply means that the ECM is in monitoring mode and should clear out automatically once the vehicle is driven a number of times. This code does not have a user reset but if you want it to clear sooner, you will need to follow a number of specific...

I don't own a V8 but the data on the Bosch ECM does say that an implausible CMP sensor signal will result in - "Quick crank/cam synchronisation on start-up feature disabled". Don't know if installing a new CMP sensor would clear this fault state automatically but I suggest you get an OBD readout...

The current that can be delivered by a battery is a function of its capacity (Ah), voltage at the terminals and load + internal resistance. Ah is indicative of the amount of energy stored in the battery, which goes down as the internal resistance increases due to discharge, sulfation and grid...

I'd start by removing all the indicator lamps except for the ones on the side and see what happens.

Double check Fuse 25 in the passenger compartment box and if that doesn't work, disconnect the brake pedal switch and see if it makes a difference.

In addition to @sierrafery's guidance, here are some additional web links with procedures and important parameters that might help you troubleshoot this problem : https://www.roverparts.com/techtips/shuttle_valve_switches_test_proc.cfm https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM016.html...

There's a good list of diag codes here - https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-codes Search for the fault description equivalent to Nanocom's and click on the link to view the troubleshooting procedure. In your case, you're probably looking at these 2 items -...

Don't know if you have RAVE but it says to first fit the upper ball joint nut and tighten to 110Nm. The lower one should then go in and torqued to 135Nm. I believe if this procedure is not followed, the lower ball joint will be taking more tension than it should.

Mine is a 10P engine with EGR installed and have never seen something like that. I clean the system every other year so that could be the result of a maintenance issue. Note also that oil is delivered to the intake as condensed vapour from the PCV via the intercooler and not the EGR, unless...

Yep, and torqued to 5Nm

Perhaps it might help if you check if the fob is actually working before doing more expensive changes. I don't think the fob's flashing light is indicative of anything other than the button was pressed, the battery is OK and part of the fob's circuit is working. I did this post some time ago...

Mine doesn't have air suspension but I had read somewhere that SLABS has an "unload" function that automatically lowers the rear when a door is opened while the vehicle is stationary. Probably it's a programmable feature that you can change with Nanocom.

3/16" brake pipe with a DIN convex single flare would work. Just use the same male connector as the ones on the ABS mod have a longer shank.

The sender should be installed somewhere on the hottest side of the cooling system, which is where the factory fitted temp sender is installed. I don't see why it shouldn't work with an adapter somewhere along the top hose, which would save you drilling or changing the flange to the cylinder...