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There's always a chance that the cylinder head could be cracked but it sounds to me that the issue is with the engine oil cooler. If you still running the original at that mileage, the O-rings might have perished or the heat exchanger could have corroded, From what I read, it seems that it is...

I've seen that distinction made several times when ordering parts and quite frankly don't know what it means. What I can confirm is that mine is a 1999MY 10P engine with a manual gearbox and the original papers from LR state that it delivers a maximum power of 102kW @ 4,200 rev/min. Could the...

That doesn't look right and I wouldn't put it into service. I changed mine with a genuine part (less the mounting bracket) and it was a tight fit.

You don't need the O-ring for the front but I do suggest to check the state of the hub mounting bolts as it's not uncommon that the head starts rounding off after multiple installations. As for the required torque which IIRC is 490Nm, I use a torque multiplier with a 4:1 ratio so I can work with...

I've been using Britpart hubs since I replaced the originals and have no complaints, always getting in the region of 80K km on each hub. It's an easy enough job to replace so I won't spend that kind of mad money on them. This Summer, I replaced the 4 of them, costing me around £200 total...

If it's not too late, tell them to use genuine bushes as BP are known to fail in a couple of months - http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Watts%20Linkage%20Bushes.html

At this stage, you might want to check the condition of the radius arm bushes. When worn or if the factory-fitted were replaced with incorrect / cheap copies, the chassis might be twisting slightly upon braking, causing a resultant sideways force.

IIRC, the storage compartment is bolted to the door trim with screws that are only accessible from the inside. Those 4 screws you removed are for the door trim.

IMHO EGR delete does more harm than good (if any). Aside from the obvious contravention and the avoidable NOx emissions (read https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/modifying-your-vehicles-emissions/modifying-your-vehicles-emissions-the-legal-safety-and-health-implications), recirculated...

So it should be a walk in the park really...just unclip the ABS sensor wiring and the brake flex pipe, disconnect the ARB link and support the vehicle from the chassis to let the axle drop as far as possible. And of course, support the axle so it won't drop once you disconnect the suspension...

Check this link. They seem to have all the manuals for the D4. https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5mhvubw2bens1/Dis4

Like you say, you'd probably had to change the brake flex pipes, lengthen the ABS sensor wiring and maybe even replace the shocks so they can extend a little bit further. When I restored mine (still have the original), all I needed was a heavy duty spring compressor. Apart from that, it's a...

My D2 is on the original springs but installed with KYB front & rear. They are the Premium oil filled type and have absolutely no regrets - comfortable ride and excellent overall stability. Don't do much offroading nowadays but I do pull the occasional 500kg trailer.

Just checked and the price difference between Genuine and Aftermarket is unbelievable for these sensors. Never had to change mine even after 22 years and 320K kms so I can't really advise on which one to get. But the D2 has the inductive type installed and I cannot imagine what can go wrong with...

I don't think there's anything wrong with the cooling system - it was just the ECU going to standby when it lost sync with the CPS. I'd check the wiring and the CPS for faults.

I was referring to the possibility of the auto gearbox going in limp home mode but given the OP's attention to detail, it would be very unlikely not to have noticed the warning lamps coming on. He also says that the torque convertor locks up at 50mph which more or less rules out the gearbox...

+1^ (most definitely) Do you see any excessive smoke or lights coming up on the instrument cluster which could indicate the auto trans is running in limp home mode ?

Colour codes of the pump terminals are illustrated in RAVE but here's a summary - White : Air bleed return : Connected to fuel filter housing left front port Green : High Pressure feed : Connected to fuel regulator on engine block Blue : Low Pressure feed : Connected to fuel filter housing left...

I tend to agree with you and I do think that there is no direct evidence yet that the ABS mod is suspect. If I were the OP, I would connect the master cylinder directly to the brake lines leading to the binding calipers (one on the primary port & one the secondary port) and see what happens. You...

AFAIK, those type of connectors are called Junior Power Timer connectors. They are cheap so you might want to buy the entire connector and just use the spring clip.