Search results

There is a rad (PDK000080) with one small port instead of two but this is for non-Euro 3 models from 02 onward. AFAIK, this type of rad was never modified whereas the 2 port version (original and modified) can fit any TD5, even later models as long as they are Euro 3 compliant.

AFAIK, LR installed the modified rad in later versions of the D2 so it depends on the VIN. The information is included in one of those TSBs. Personally, I had the original, old type rad installed for 14 years or so and never had any problems with engine cooling or cabin heating. The replacement...

As @neilly said, I think you're referring to the modified radiator, which I believe is the only type of radiator you can get as a replacement. I have attached some documents in a recent thread that I believe are relevant to what you're asking for - Replacing radiator - help

You're probably spot on. Just did a search for the 100A D1 alternator AMR5425 and they seem to sell them with either 49mm or 61mm diameter pulleys. Can't say why as I don't have a D1 but somewhere down the line they must have modified the specs to change the alternator speed.

The leftmost half of the alternator pulley is darker, possibly from rubber residue or heat from friction, which might indicate that the belt was slipping. Check that all pulleys rotate freely, that the tensioner is not weak and that the alternator shaft turns straight on its axis.

I think it has something to do with a modification to the radiator's bottom 4 rows, which were reserved for fuel cooling in the original design.

The only time I had to remove it is when I did the oil pump bolt but IIRC, the front prop shaft stayed in place. You will need to lift the vehicle from the chassis to extend the clearance between the undershield and the front axle and most likely, you will also need to remove the cross member.

Depending on the VIN (check TSB), you might need a fuel cooler restrictor. They say it comes with the new radiator but it never did whenever I replaced mine. But you can buy it separately using part code PCS000010. As for the radiator, it should not be modified in any way. The original radiator...

So you might want to do that repair on the old radiator and keep it as spare ! I've also attached 2 LR documents, one in relation to the bottom ports of the new spec D2 radiators + fuel cooler restrictor whereas the other one is an update to the removal and installation methods found in RAVE...

I wonder if you can replace that connector in situ with a hose barb threaded in and sealed.

No problem Adam. You're very welcome.And glad that all went well. Cheers

As a NAS owner, there are a few docs here that you might be interested in : https://discoii.wordpress.com/resources/

If the ball joints are pressed in square and flush against the diff, it's hard to see what the problem could be without a picture. The collet can be used to adjust the tension on the steering knuckle but if the ball joints are a good make (Lemforder, etc.), the dimensions would be 100% and it is...

Unless the metal ring is broken or the rubber perished (which is rare), you can reuse. Just give them a good clean, remove any rust and paint or spray. I used this kit when I did mine. Just make sure you keep the screw thread well lubricated and you'll be OK...

While you're there, it's probably a good idea to remove the dashboard support bracket (pic #4) and treat it for rust. It will also give you access to the area behind it and the 2 bolt holes. When I did mine, I used a bottle jack and a block of wood to support the dashboard before removal. You...

Wasn't aware of that but as @Sam-td5-97 said, there's a drain hole right at the bottom of the A pillar. I'm enclosing an image I found on this thread https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sunroof-drain-tube-exit-point.157091/ that shows its exact location.

Is there a drain at the bottom of the A pillar ? 'Cause if not, I think I'd rather leave those holes open so if there's water ingress I would know about it rather than have it accumulate and corrode the pillar from the inside.

If it's the earlier type, i.e. the 32mm hex head, there's also a washer in there (part FTC4112). Most (myself included) forget about this until it's too late and since it's not the kind of washer that most DIY mechanics will have lying around, it will end up reused and the bolt over tightened to...

AFAIK, the TD5 turbo is a Garrett GT2052S which uses sliding contact aka journal bearings.

I'd say to hell with the market value - what's it worth to you is what really counts. A quick check for a functional IDM - BCU link is to operate the intermittent wipers, hazard lamps and electric windows, although your issue with the door lock actuators could already indicate that there is a...