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For albeit mainly cosmetic reasons I'm looking to replace the rear brake drums with new ones, are there any brands which are to be avoided and recommended? I've a 2004 FL1 TD4 Facelift if there are any specific fitments required.

Over the last few days I took my FL (with new clutch) up to north west Scotland. It’s definitely at its happiest when tootling along at 40mph on single track roads avoiding cows. I can’t recommend that area enough.

All done along with both rear brake lines and brake cylinders replaced for just over £700, so I can’t complain.

A Freelander 2 doesn’t have a VCU, so it’s a reasonable guess it’s a FL1.

Turns out it was the slave, so that’s being replaced right now. Not exactly what I planned on getting myself for Christmas...

There will be others more qualified than I to comment but the usual reason for the removal of the prop shaft is either a damaged VCU, IRD or differential, or maybe both. It’d be worth fitting the prop and then carrying out the One Wheel Up Test to get an idea as to the health of the VCU before...

Pretty sure T20 features a bit.

Spoke too so That’s useful to know the difference, thanks. As it happened the car became undriveable so I’m currently waiting for the AA.

It’s booked in tomorrow, I’ll try just the master for now and hope. All your advice is hugely appreciated, thank you.

As it’s a TD4 I gather it’s useful to change the DMF at the same time, are there any recommendations for manufacturers to use and avoid? It’s not a job I’ll be attempting myself as I have neither the skills, equipment or space to do it.

I guess I already know the depressing answer to this question, but just now my clutch went to the floor and didn’t return; I was able to pull it up with my foot and now it’s working fine. I am assuming this is a warning sign that the clutch is about to go, but is there any other advice or...

I've removed the rear seats of my 3-door to create a much larger boot space, which is currently in a 'cramper' van mode (i.e. I've fitted a foam mattress for overnighting).

Great thanks, only other question is does the actual cradle offer any better protection if green laning/off roading etc. if that's the case, then I'll certainly go for the cradle.

Sorry, I wasn't clear - I meant would a welded strap solution fail an MoT? I assume not, but might it depend on the mood of the examiner if it's not an official cradle?

Thanks for that, my other question would be would it fail an MoT, or be a possible issue for an insurance company if they check after an accident?

Finally got round to changing the diff mounts and replacing my leaking injector on my FL1 TD4. It feels like a new car. Next on the list is replacing the brake lines and fuel tank cradle, but that's definitely a garage job - I'm not going to take the risk with brakes. Whilst I was booking it...

They are M+S tyres and essentially winter tyres but I've had them on all year round and they're fine, a HUGE step-up from the Sunny crap that was on it when I purchased the vehicle. Good in the wet too, decent handling. Tyre noise is acceptable.

I can highly recommend the Cooper WeatherMaster WSC tyres, you really are limited with the 18" rims, unless you want to spend £160+ corner but I've been more than happy with them.

So, my used injector arrived and it's for an automatic. Unsurprisingly, the guy I bought it off is now ignoring me - so my question is can you fit an auto injector to a manual engine?

So you're not talking about the o-ring that is part of the leak-off replacement kit, this is a different o-ring. Sorry for coming across as dumb, I just don't want to miss out something.