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Well, that was the symptoms of my first dodgy one - wouldn’t fire up when warm. The second dodgy one (that I found ‘by error’) was me replacing the first one with a cheap knock-off. Had an intermittent electrical fault I think. Lesson learned.

Thats a bugger… I had something similar on my 1 once… I did some work on the fuel system, replaced filters and the LP pump. The thing would not start after… turned out I also had an intermittently dodgy camshaft sensor! (They don’t throw a code)

I didn’t even notice that… I was too busy looking at the guard! Not good.

Sounds like torque steer to me too… that’s where I’d be looking first, to prove or disprove, before replacing parts.

I recently did the same - though it’s been sold given to my daughter. So keeps returning with “can you just…” 😂 It’s nice to see it every few weeks, and she uses it as her daily - loves it. And I can still have a drive 😉 If I’m honest, the 2 is much nicer to drive, even though it’s only 5 years...

A td4 timing chain should not need replacing… it’s a chain!

Looks well made… (the guard)

Good shout - you’d have the fashion police on you in no time!

…wet your fingers, hold both ends, measure distance you jump from floor. Disclaimer to anyone: DO NOT actually do this 😂🤣😂

Now you are talking! Had that exact meal yesterday morning… in the FL!

To turn down a sausage and egg McMuffin is borderline criminal !

They look really good Ali. I’m thinking about spraying mine in a satin black, but that won’t be till next spring now.

Coming along nicely. I hope you took biscuits!

Nice solve!

Looking good. Someone will be happy 😉

Assume all the boost hoses are ok on it? … or maybe it is pointing to the HPFP as Andy says? I don’t think the F1 injectors need coding.

YFB100380 will get you the whole clock unit… although I’d be looking at aftermarket / used for that, rather than a genuine new one (LR want stupid money for a little digital watch!) I believe they are exactly the same as that from a Rover 25 also.

My 2nd one is ok… it’s only a few years old as I got it for the FL1. It has a good height, but I never really trusted it as it has a narrower body and smaller head. The F2, being heavier still, just necessitated a bigger tool. That was my excuse, anyway! I have a lot more trust in the new one.

Yes, funny you say that…😁 Such a difference with a larger jack and jack-head. Still, my smaller (now spare) one did come in very handy for the recent subframe / diff jobs.

You might help us to help you by starting off with what Freelander you have 😉 If wiggling the wiring temporarily starts it again, then it sounds like you have identified where the issue is already?