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Of course you have already checked that the battery is correctly connected..... If so, earth connections are next!

There's little room even with the floor plate off, you might struggle to get a plasma cutter in. IIRC, you can cut the existing outrigger up bit by bit to make it easier, but its just one of those jobs that need time.

On my '85 90" the pipe to the passenger fronts runs across the bulkhead (clipped in), and as stated above, generally follows the run of the clutch pipe to the chassis rail. My brake splitter is almost directly below the master cylinder, mounted on a bracket bolted to the chassis.

If there's no way to add a few rivets, I'd be thinking about using Tigerseal, or something as strong. You could also make you own template based on the size of the windows to hand. The jigsaw/grinder will made quite a mess of fine alu dust, probably a good idea to wear a mask for the grinding...

You can get small speakers that fit into the dash beside the stereo unit - that way they are pointing at you and have a chance of being heard. I've also fitted a second set of larger speakers bolted to brackets that are themselves bolted to the internal gutter just behind the headlining. These...

If you're determined to go with electrical, make sure you get the solid state versions, as per the link above. The older facets had contacts which went out of adjustment and were almost impossible to fix.

I see where you're coming from, but I can't see the little rubber diaphragm standard lift pump producing much pressure. I think its the distribution pump that produces all the high pressure. They will run with fuel supplied from a can held above the engine.

Stick with the standard, you don't want another electrical thing to go wrong. I had to replace the Facet in my V8 several times, it's not a great design. That said, if it can cope with a V8 at 70mph (9MPG), it won't have any problems delivering enough fuel for a 200TDi.

Sounds like the clutch flexi pipe is bulging after being used for a bit. Make sure it isn't too close to the exhaust.

Sounds like a hazard switch to me. They are a bit pants, but cheap and easy to replace. Edited to say: Looking at your post again, do you mean the indicator on the outside of the vehicle is not working - or the one on the dash? If it's the one outside and all the others are working, I'd look at...

The customer concerned was Trevor Cuthbert land Rovers. If you want to contact him directly, he has a web page/facebook page for his restoration business.

I have seen a custom job Demand made for a friends V8 110 - it was a work of art.

The good news is that the electrics on the early models are very simple. Are you sure that the tail light on the passenger side is working? If so, the fault has to be between where the rear loom enters the cabin (look for a little cover at the back of the tub) behind this cover on the drivers...

I can confirm that the rangemaster is suitable for tubes, I ran them for years on my series.

I replaced mine in October with a genuine Lucas switch. The quality of it was awful, I'd buy a blue box one. Or just clean the old switch contacts - the back of the switch is open.

You can buy a complete set of the nuts/bolts etc designed for the chassis change, can't remember where, but Google is your friend there. Expect to use a grinder to remove a lot of the old ones, unless you enjoy days of bad language and skinned knuckles - hex instead of bi-hex spanners and...

Sorry for being dumb, you have an electrical switch on your clutch master cylinder? What's it for?

The air flows through the pipework and out of the bleed nipple.

Skytag get a lot of good reviews for vehicle recovery if the scrotes get it. Personally in your position I'd fit a quick release steering wheel.

You can check for parasitic drain using the amps reading on the meter. With everything turned off, disconnect the positive terminal and connect the meter between the terminal and the positive lead. Any current flowing to the battery will have to go through the meter. If there is some current...