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You can buy the bonnet mount kit for much less than £500. I got a brand new one from PA Blanchard for £206 delivered, that was August this year. It includes reinforcing brackets for the bonnet frame, and it's easy enough to fit - took me a couple of hours.

Some of the brackets listed above were stupidly expensive when I fitted mine, I was able to make my own.

+1 for the above. TD system fitted to a 200TDi conversion.

I would say 40psi at cold idle is OK - certainly my old Disco 200TDI sits around that, dropping to around 30psi hot.

I finally got around to fitting the heavy duty bonnet stay after moving the spare wheel there a few weeks back. Of course, the new stay and retaining clip did not match - even though the part numbers seemed correct. The clip looks like it's for a stay with a diameter of around 5mm, whereas the...

If you google Stage One V8 dash - images - you'll see what they used as a centre console. Easy peasy to make one up, and it would fit almost anywhere along the dash.

Fitted new roof bars to replace the ancient rusting hotch potch and an ARB awning. Very impressed with the quality of both.

Oopsie - wrong thread

It's very much a "you get what you pay for", a cheap door will rust and rot quickly. There are all steel galvanised doors out there that will cost more, but last much longer. A local (N Ireland) firm was selling them for £250 a couple of years back.

+1 for the stable matting. Cheap, easy to cut to shape and bomb proof. It does also dampen the sound quite a bit - especially in the rear. I've fitted the 25mm stuff which is probably overkill.

Yep, you have a disco TDi with a slightly ratty conversion. These are great engines - long lasting and powerful enough for an aging landy. As mentioned above, I'd plan for a timing belt change and start looking on line for a 200tdi disco air filter housing. Have a look at the Glencoyne...

I had a new Britpart prop fail because of a UJ within a couple of thousand miles - the end of the UJ bearing actually shot off down the road!. It's been fine since fitting decent UJs.

On the rocker hazard switch, there should not be a connection between the left and right outputs in the off position. That's one of the things the switch does - it connects both sides to the relay output. Just to be sure, take the dash telltale bulb out when testing.

Have a look here: https://www.landroverexpedition.com/articles/universal-joint-differences/

You need your vin number - but I suspect it will be the later/larger UJs. It's worth buying good quality ones - look for GKN. Some suppliers stock the "expedition quality" ones which have better seals. (metal and rubber as opposed to just rubber)

+1 for fitting a decent gauge. Personally I can't get my 200TDi to run above 85 degrees and I haven't had a fan since fitting the engine 4 years ago. I'm not towing anything heavy or working it hard off road of course. These engines are known for running cool, if it's getting too hot it might...

Unless the existing braking is working really well and the flexis look recent I'd be changing the flexi lines too. While you're doing that there's a fair chance that the existing solid lines and joints will be damaged, so do the lot. If the braking is a bit suspect there's a good chance that...

Finished modifying my spare wheel bike rack. As it arrived, the arms were 10cm too wide for either of our (totally normal) bikes. Classic B**&^%rt part! I cut a thin cheese out of one of the arms at the bend, then welded and painted it up. The high viz paint at the ends is to stop me walking...

Just another thought - how are your steering joints in the front hubs? Jack up the wheels and try to move the wheel top to bottom. Any play means wear in the bearings (or bush/bearing on older models)

Like most suspension stuff it's not difficult, just heavy and dirty. It's often difficult to separate the ball joint from the holder. You'll find this much easier off the vehicle, if you have a vice and bench to work on.