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A few shots of my install:

It's also a good time to check your footwells/bulkhead for rust and weld it up while access is good. I'd also recommend removing the wings and using copper grease on all the wing bolts. Refitting the engine will be much easier with the wings off anyway.

Just my 10p worth, i have changed my 1985 na to a disco 200tdi. If you stick with the disco manifolds, its easy enough, and there's a guy on ebay who sells the conversion downpipe for much less than steve parker. Make sure you have a good look at the glencoyne engineering website for the...

I know you have said the timing is spot on, but as it was running before and you have fuel going to the cylinders It might be worth checking - not just with the marks, but TDC at no1 piston.

I know, and I did. It took a few miles before they were anything like normal, and in the end I had to take the drums off to get all the silt washed out.

I think it's worth adding that in my experience of off roading, drums take longer to dry out than discs after wading. If you are rebuilding this with an eye to doing lots of wading, I would go for a disc conversion. I have been caught out in a series in the past after an off road day with lots...

Yes, Northern Irish regs show up on the system. If these are vehicles are owned by Trevor, I think this accident happened quite a long time ago. Funny the photos popped up on facebook recently too.

I believe a deer jumped out in front of the driver. This looks like one of Trevor Cuthbert Landrovers restorations, I'm sure he'll sort it out properly. He's the Irish agent for Richards chassis, so if it needs another new one, he's the man.

The Landy Gods giveth and they taketh away! I can't see how a rolling road would affect it as long as the brakes were set OK. If they use a shaker plate like in the North, it could have done something to the swivel bearings. Time to get the spanners out - and don't forget to check for the...

I have found this handy many times over the years working on my 1985 90". I think the colour codes will apply to yours as well. Well worth printing out and keeping in the shed/toolbox. http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Lucaswirecode.htm

Although you say you have swapped the switch, you have the classic symptoms of a faulty switch! It's not unknown for new ones to be duff, especially if its old stock. You could try taking it out, and putting plenty of wd40 around it while turning it on or off, in case it's just dirty/corroded...

I was going to use the rubber mounts from a 2.5 NA shroud mount to get around the vibration. However, it looks like it just one of those tratter things, I'll just keep an eye on the tension. Thanks to everyone who replied!

Great thread :) As many of us can testify, after a years of proper maintenance and many replacement parts they can become very reliable!

Hello all, I'm thinking about a project for the few days off work over Christmas: I've noticed when wading through any more than a couple of inches of water the ignition light comes on for a few seconds. Obviously water splashes onto the pulleys making the belt slip a little. I'm thinking...

I've just bought a complete handle from fleabay for £30!

:D:D:D Classic landy maintenance.

I'm pretty sure you're right - same door handle in lots of old british vehicles - the MGB one looks identical. I can vouch for the fact that the outer trim is the same - the part number even matches!

Stable matting for the floor - very hardwearing, washable and fairly cheap. Get stuff with the hammered/dimple texture and it even looks OK.

That's interesting. I ordered a clip using the parts catalogue, what I was sent would not fit the diameter of the strut - so I have a bag of 8 clips that don't fit. I reckon they would be fine for an 8mm strut, mine is more like 15mm.

Don't forget the heavy duty bonnet stay - cheap enough and easy to fit. I found a bulldog clip bolted to the bonnet frame inside holds the stay in place really well.