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I always avoid taking the steering onto full lock - I'm sure I read many years ago that this was to be avoided as it caused steering box failure.

If you can get the motor off, I think you'll find it's the same motor as used on MGBs etc. They will usually be much less expensive.

Haynes and the Official workshop manual tell you how to do things, the parts book lists all the parts, with exploded diagrams showing how the parts connect/sit with each other. For ordering spares the parts book is fantastic, as it also has a list of the different part numbers used over the...

Changed the main gear in the wiper motor/gearbox, hopefully this will reduce the wide variation in the size of the wiper arc. I'm not really interested in wiping the windscreen seal! I didn't see anything wrong with he old gear, but we live in hope...

Fitted two rear tub support rails - wrangled it without having to raise the tub too. One of them literally fell to pieces as I wrestled with it - I suppose it is 39 years old. The second one from the back probably gets most of the salt spray from the wheels as it's right beside them. The...

From your photo it looks like you have the lower mounted turbo from the Disco. If this is correct, then you can indeed fit a cut back TD downpipe and system. That's exactly what I fitted/have.

Fitted a new Panhard rod after noticing the bushes were shot - this was just a few days before the MoT, so there was a bit of a sweat to get the replacement in time. Passed first time and just one more MoT by my calculations before the old girl is 40yo and exempt!

You could also remove the cover of the wiper motor, there's a permanent live there (green). Short it with a bit of wire to one of the other wires.

You will see a multiplug on the bulkhead, I think it's a 10 way. The gauge plugs in at one end. On mine, there's only one way for a two way plug to fit.

I'd just add that an engine conversion can make a 90/110 much more driveable in modern traffic. The original 2.5d engines are much slower, and the turbo diesels have a reputation for overheating. A 90 with a Tdi is very driveable - even fun! You really need to see and drive the vehicle - there...

Buy the best ones you can afford - they will last much longer. Island 4x4 sell the "expedition" versions, with steel covers over the rubber seals (and grease nipples). Part code DA6356 Make sure they are the right ones for your vehicle - there are two different sizes!

Just another thought - any change when the steering is used? There are also the CV joints in the front swivels. If you were moving slowly with the steering near full lock you would usually hear something if one has gone. Fairly cheap fix, as with the propshafts.

Is the noise speed related? i.e. does it change as engine revs or road speed change? Is it only there on the move? It does sound like a propshaft UJ has let go to me, but I would expect that to be noticed by your gearbox guy.

I've fitted a set of Durite gauges - with an oil pressure gauge in the RH position, I already have a clock on the dashtop/watch/phone!

There seem to be two issues here - you need to sort the overheating first before the engine is damaged. The cooling systems on these engines are designed to cope with very hot weather, so should run coolish/take a while to warm up at this time of year. Once you have sorted the overheating and...

Looks like a hole for a choke cable/puller? Good to hear you're nearly there with the wiring.

That's exactly what's on the wiring diagram - as the wiring was "developed" from the SIII wiring, and that in turn from the older Series models, it could be the designer was trying to reduce the amount of wiring used due to post war shortages!

I think if you can download and print a copy of the wiring diagram and colour code (part of the workshop manual) it will make things much easier for you. The colours used are part of a british standard - e.g. red with a yellow trace should be the wire(s) from the fog light to the fog light...

Third/Fourth is the neutral position for the stick - in a LT77 anyway - I don't mean the gearbox is in neutral, it's where the selector bias springs are exerting their least force. It's quite likely a bit of wear and vibration means the bias springs are no longer acting on the selector lever at...