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There are three tiny holes in the block that are covered by the new gasket. Has anyone else bought the same gasket as me (see the link in my first post) for a 2.25 diesel? If not, what composite gaskets are people using?

James, thank you very much

That was my thoughts, hence questions on the Range Rover section

Found this in a box of bits, it has RR4sp on it.

Excellent news, glad you got it running

If the original engine was a2.6 6 cylinder then yes as the bulkhead (and bellhousing?) was modified to accommodate the engine.

I would definitely wire up the glow plugs before trying to start a 2.25 diesel, they struggle at the best of times WITH glow plugs.

I'll double check later on.

See here: FAL/SLR Bulkhead Mounts | Defender Source Forum

The last phots are clamps for the SLR or were they for the SMG (I can't remember) They are not complete. They should have two semi circular 'clamps' covered with leather to grip the weapon. I'll see if I can find a photo of a complete one.

I compared the gasket with the head and the gasket is missing 3 holes. So, do I cover the holes or drill the gasket? Is the gasket and 'upgrade' moving the coolant to the area that needs cooling most/evenly?

You might have a military 1:6 ratio transfer box, that would lower the speed compared to a 1:41 box. Is it a 90 or 110 you have?

Yes

I'm sure @norseman will be back but I think the engine he refers to is a 3 litre version of the land Rover 2.6 6 Cyl engine. It had a 'Westlake' head and produced 115 bhp Rover P5 - Wikipedia

Make sure the 'fuel stop' lever is in the 'run' position. You could try spraying some WD40 (not easystart) in the inlet manifold to see if it kicks in and then drags the diesel through.

Check the breather on the top of the rocker cover is clear. The mesh may be clogged with mayo. Clean it out and that may help reduce the build up.

I had the same problem with a 2¼ diesel recently, nothing at he second bleed screw, which like you I thought wasn't right but I read something on here written by @jamesmartin and he said only the round part screw needed bleeding. A good battery, very good, was what was needed in my case as my...

You only need to bleed the pump on the curved part of the body. Crack all of the injectors and then crank and crank and crank, once its starts to try to start tighten the unions then crank and crank ..... and crank. You may have noticed, there is a lot of cranking involved here. Your battery...

Sorry My bad, the gasket I have is a composite, see the link I'll edit my original post

That's a good point, I'll look at that on Monday when I'm off.