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And here I am living in hope, Evoque still holding good resale value here so far, them and Defenders.

Let's hope @Land_girl, famous for attracting record numbers in her threads doesn't get on here telling us she is considering purchasing an Evoque or has found a fella with an Evoque, couldn't imagine what kind of an uproar that would cause with the holy RR worshiper group, that could turn into a...

The bearing cartidge will press out of the alloy cover plate but you may need to be very careful to use good support in the right places to stop cracking the alloy. The proper replacement cartridge, (single ended shaft), is hard to get hold of over here at least,(and I believe expensive if you...

Driveline clunk, could be rear suspension "A" frame balljoint, very common problem. Shimmy can be caused by strange type, (choppy), wear on front tyres, try putting rear tyres to front.

Maybe it's just you don't understand the meaning of the word "progress".

Not really doing anything to get a bite, in fact I admire to some extent your choice to own and preserve what I believe to be a great car for it's time, it's the fantasy concept that you and some others contend that an Evoque "is not a Range Rover", simply by the fact it was made by the Rover...

So you currently own a Classic then?

Just like the previous owners of the lot on here's Rangies did, unless they've owned them from new, and that would indeed be rare, (who keeps a Range Rover from new?). And the "used" Evoque will probably bring with it as many problems to it's subsequent owners as the the financial grief that...

Now come on, don't try talking sense to this lot, they like spending their spare cash on petrol, spare parts and workshop labour costs, why would you want to give all that good stuff up for a nice modern car that is fuel efficient, very on and off road capable and looks like it belongs to the...

If you really thought a lot of her you could always buy her a Toyota Landcruiser.

Probably wanted something to drive rather than something to spend all her spare time and money working on.

95ft/lb is what I do up the 14mm wheel nuts to so I figured with the original bolts on the panhard working loose, I couldn't go wrong, particularly now thst the new bolts are 10.9 HT, the bastids won't come loose again.

You understand correct, what had happened on mine because the bolts had lost their clamping tension long ago the steel centre sleeves had worn into the inner steel faces of both brackets inner surfaces, so tightening only produced bending /distortion of the brackets, totally useless, so the...

The panhard rod bolts could be worn down in diameter where they fit through the steel eye of the rubber bush in each end of the rod, on my 300Tdi the bolt at the steering box end was near 3mm worn undersize the chassis end about 1.5mm undersize. The wear was from the bolts not being tight enough...

It's like a lot of this stuff, there is pro's and con's, if I had another car worthwhile keeping a long time I'd do the brake fluid thing and the waterless coolant thing because it keeps them usable for longer and narrows the risks of stuffing them up completely, say, should a coolant hose burst...

Yes, good policy, if you can purge all the old brake fluid out, as @Turboman has said you cannot mix the fluids as traces of the old will still work their destructive ways. I used a special system cleaner, (that was about 20 years ago, can't recall what it was), that was made to take all traces...

What about trying non-hygroscopic,(hydrophobic, Dot5) silicone brake fluid, you'd need to remove all the old stuff from the system and replace all the rubbers, but it seems to overcome the corrosion issues, it is more expensive but not as much as the p.i.t.a. that having to do the job over and...

Sounds like you have been through the bleed process as comprehensively as possible, might now be time to establish if the IP is in fact rotating, the pump drives off a "skew gear" from the camshaft I think, (I'm not all that familiar with this engine), but @jamesmartin will have seen a lot, and...

Once you are able to bleed the air out of the IP body bleed screw by pumping the lift pump, then, using a fully charged battery, loosen the flare nuts at the injectors, crank the engine, tighten the flare nuts as fuel appears. If there is no fuel appearing then as has already been said, check...

Not too sure with that IP but with all working correctly, you should be able to get some fuel from the injector lines with the flare nuts loosened at the injectors whilst pumping the lift pump.