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Great, thanks that all makes a lot more sense!

cool, that's what I needed. Those special bolts (8), they go through the tube that the old roof sticks socketed into? I would guess the integrated washer sits on top, then the lower washer (10) sits underneath? Is it really just held in the middle and in the two front corners? that seems...

I don't have any special bolts. I was hoping to find a diagram in the parts catalogue that showed it all but it doesn't seem to be in there

I've been converting my full tilt military 109 to a truck cab in order to try and preserve my canvas over winter. I'm struggling a bit with how to attach it. The only documentation I've found is page 76-8 which gives an exploded diagram of the cab parts only, and I'm not sure I've got them...

Cheapest I've seen a cap is £111, ouch, might try scrubbing the rust off the one I've got. I'd like to use it occasionally for longer trips. What causes it? Just not used often enough, condensation gets in?

Yea seems to be available, £200 for the tank without a cap or filler though

The fuel tank on the passenger side of my truck has a corrosion problem. Not sure why or what's best to do about it. It still has fuel in the bottom but I don't dare switch to it because I'm worried about the rust particles that may get picked up. At a minimum I think I need a new cap, seal...

it's the red one in that image, goes into the bottom of the same connector that has the one from the coil, which was a bit surprising to me! I still can't rotate the dizzy, so I guess i'm stuck with the timing i've got for the moment. Hopefully fiddling with the carb can get me under the CO...

I found this picture that shows it, that was not obvious! Still can't rotate the thing to affect the timing though.

sorry! also i've managed to pull this connector for the condenser out from somewhere but can't seem to see anywhere obvious that it came from!

How would I check the compression ratio of the head (other than busting out the burette!)? I've slackened the pinch bolt under the dizzy but it wont turn at all, I've tried pretty hard. Ah I missing something else that would be locking it in place?

Just failed am MOT on emissions, I haven't looked at the engine properly since I bought it, been too busy with the gearbox, so decided I need to give it a tune. I've looked up the engine number, should be 8:1, so according to the book I should be at TDC on the strobe. Putting the strobe to...

I have a broken wire on one of my gauge bulbs, the cold start one. I've had a good look around and am really struggling to find replacements. The originals come pre-terminated, it's not clear to me at all that the centre pin connection comes apart at all. Are replacements with crimp terminals...

Brilliant, thanks 👍

It's been a couple of months since I took all this apart. I remember it goes behind the tab plate on the RHS gearbox mount but not which stud.

Does look very tidy that! I see your point about the ancient wiring, I'll go with an extra tap off the battery then.

I'm fitting an electric fan in my series 3, the Revotech kit. Mechanically installation is very simple but I'm looking for some advice on which circuit (ignition switched) is going to be best to use that's up for the current. It's going to be wired up next to the battery. Has anybody fitted...

Interesting. When you say holds it, do you mean it's where it's stored if you're not using it for wading? What does it plug, the bell housing? I think I might be missing the plug, or maybe it's been left fitted

I stuck the gear stick on and couldn't get 3rd/4th properly so took it apart again. I think the selector blocks were interfering slightly. It's all working nicely now and I managed to get it install again. Only problem now is in my bag of fasteners there's one bolt with an L shaped bracket...

I wish I'd taken a photo of this before. The gates line up quite well in the longitudinal direction but reverse has a bit of a gap to 1st/2nd. But I was quite careful to get them clocked in the middle of the play.