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Not too much of a development cost for petrol K-series as from Euro 3 (2001) they were already Euro 4 compliant by NOx, and later Chinese era TFs were homologated to Euro 5 standards, so to be compliant you’d need the injectors, ECU map and the catalytic converters from those later cars to make...

From my understanding, anyone using the engine management ECU from a certain tier one supplier had this capacity - and there are currently mass-action law suits being filed by "no win no fee" lawyers against all manufacturers (including Volvo and JLR) that used that ECU...

I had been working on that via a link who had contacts with MIRA - the idea being for a more affordable test that would then be filed to the DVLA. Unfortunately, COVID somewhat killed the momentum on this project :( Might be worth re-investigating soon, if the whole of greater London starts...

Haha!

Only really after the back box really - and that’s on a slip joint. Just over 40 quid for one of these, but the stainless system is startlingly cheap. Hate the double exit exhaust tips though, but one could simply not fit it! Lol

Thanks -it’s a 2001, so it suspect later type, but will check… thanks Andy :)

Good news! Hippo passed its MoT! only advisory was a small hole in the rear silencer. Hopefully not too difficult to sort out :) the big search for bodywork rust starts when the weather warms up…

Great minds etc etc lol

I'd be tempted to do a hybrid solution - enlarge the existing opening in the inner wing, leave the box section alone, and add as small an extension to the steering arm as possible... Is anyone fitting the less aggressive lift kits? I'd have thought the 20mm version would be a useful gain...

These are lovely cars to work on - really straightforward in the most part. Usually the most challenging part is that they are now around 20 years old - and things don't come apart like they do in a Haynes Manual. But then, when does anything come apart like it does in a Haynes manual??? LOL

I replaced the case and the rubber buttons on the old key fob that is a little worse for wear - and the switches are predictably as vague and variable as ever on that fob, especially the unlock button. Looks like it may be time to warm up Mr Soldering Iron to swap in a pair of replacement...

Thanks Andy - I must've read the wrong column in Haynes manual. I'll get the car up on ramps to do this :)

Thanks Andy rear suspension: front non-adjustable arm to subframe and rear adjustable link to subframe :)

I tapped the sensor a little closer to the reluctor ring and the abnormal TC activation has now gone! happy days: time to book the MoT!

Nothing too obvious on the external sills on mine - but I know the seam was crumbling… I’ll take the plastic covers off when the weather gets warmer - and perhaps aim to leave them off… can you get rock sliders? Might be a good thing to add if welding sills anyway?

Just watched Mr Furious Driving n YouTube - now quivering in fear that the rot in my hippo is more expansive than I feared!!! I need to learn welding, so fingers crossed it gets through MoT now and I’ll tackle any tin worm when the weather dries…

You’re not wrong! I ended up buying the kit with the micro switches included!

Changed the key fob batteries, so no more “beep-beep” noise after unlocking the car! One problem though: after changing one battery, the fob stopped working. Took the fob apart again and found that one of the battery cage terminals had snapped from the PCB. Luckily, just enough remained for...

Does the cheap part need to be new? Parts from a acrappedparts car are the best - in man-maths terms, these bits are effectively “free”! Lol

New sensor arrived and Sunday was dry enough for me to spend over 6 hours under the car... Ah, the joys of working on 21+ year old cars... Long and short, the three amigos have once again left the building and a joyous lack of yellow lamps have restored calm to the dashboard. There was...