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Hold up!! Are you sure this is a fuse problem? Have you checked the switch is getting power and that the switch is actually working. Don't forget it is a two stage switch. I had a similar problem with my '91, every now and again I would get an ABS fault that pointed to the brake light switch...

If you're going in and think you might need to be pulled out, attach the rope BEFORE you go in.

Glad it's sorted. Always remember if the engine will actually run it will probably be something simple that causes rough running, the problem is identifying which bit isn't doing its' job properly. Have to say, never heard of a missing tune select resistor but hey we all live and learn.

O.K. just had a quick breeze through some info I have and it turns out some NAS spec motors didn't have a tune select resistor. In this case, apparently the ECU will assume a "white" tune which is a cat tune and O2 sensors are required. If the ecu assumes a cat tune but no O2 sensors are fitted...

I've never tried unplugging the tune select resistor so not sure what would happen. I could only suggest you get hold of the correct resistor and plug it in and see what happens??

Throttle pot 0.27v to max 0.30v. CO trim 1.0v

TPS voltage looks slightly high to me. CO trim at 1.5v is high for non-cat car. Have you checked the throttle pot for resistance and scaling?

Please post up pics of: A: your ECU B:your air flow meter If possible, can you post the following: CO trim voltage Throttle pot closed voltage. Fuel rail thermistor resistance Coolant temp. thermistor resistance. Where is your ignition timing set to? and what compression ratio engine is...

Hi, I'm not sure this makes complete sense. You said this was a 3.9 efi conversion. AFAIK all 3.9's had hotwire injection, this would be the 14 CUX ecu and lucas hotwire air flow meter. Can you post a photo of the ecu and air flow meter, that should tell the tale. If you do have a 14cux ecu...

Jai, where in N.Wales you going? Also, does your phone number still end 114?

Hi Jai, nice to see you're alive and well!! There are a few green lanes up this way but I have to say I've not done anything in at least 4 or 5 years. I'm sure if you put a shout out there would be folks around who know what's good and what's not up here. Anyway, if you venture up this way...

I don't think you understand this injection system. 14CUX needs speed transducer - it is part of the idle control circuit. The components of the injection system do not need to be synced to anything, the ECU isn't that clever. The only clever thing it can do is look at O2 sensors and apply fuel...

BTW you say you installed a new MAF. Have you checked the CO trim?

Have you checked if you have lambda control? if the O2 sensors are duff and the ecu isn't getting the right input it will go in to limp mode which is a really rich basic fuel map. If it is related to lambda control, it will be fine while cold and also at wide open throttle. Once warm it will...

The 14CUX hotwire injection system is quite basic and easy to set up and maintain. Some parts are difficult to source and are expensive, for example, throttle potentiometer. I would respectfully suggest you stop and cool off. Invest some time searching this forum there is so much information...

See post 10! The only other question is are you happy you have the plug leads in the right order and correctly routed?

O.K. then, if you jump over in to the V8 engines section and do a search for ignition tests you should find a whole load of threads and posts about ignition problems, misfires and no start. Don't forget that it may not be a component fault - check wiring and connectors. The connectors that go...

And your bottle if it's deep enough!

This happens from time to time. Lets get some stuff out of the way first. If there is no spark you might not get fuel because the ecu won't fire the injectors if it doesn't get a run signal which comes from the coil. I doubt it is the immobiliser because the engine turns over. Try listening...

I put a Kent H180 in my 3.9 Range Rover Classic. I don't bother measuring fuel consumption, it's a bit pointless. However, it seems to have more mid range power and overall, I would say not a bad way to go although I have read that for a 3.5, using a standard 3.9 cam is a good upgrade. As part...