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Hello Jai! Sorry to hear about you having to change job but glad you found something else. Did you manage to get out on the lanes? I've not been out laning in probably 10 years although with my dodgey feet/ankles it wouldn't be a brilliant idea but who knows, maybe one day. I am going to be...

As Mark said, why change it? If it isn't a full system (4 branch headers, collector and front pipe) I wouldn't have said the exhaust is worth much. There is nothing particularly special about it so I would leave it. At least you'll know it shouldn't rust!

Just a quick note of caution, do not use high power coils on this ignition system, they don't like it and will fail. I have posted on this before. Make sure you check the wiring very carefully, old corroded wires break inside the insulation where you can't see the breaks. If any of the LT...

That's no gonna work! The timing marks and the slot in the balancer are two different things. You need to properly clean (scrub) the bottom pulley, I would suggest a good degreaser and a small brush - like a nail brush and you should uncover the timing marks. They are not very deep and are...

+1 for carb jetting. Also, look at carb balance. The only other thought is maybe try advancing the ignition timing and see if that helps.

91 RRC, same as mine! I believe 91 was a change over year so going forward be aware that some parts may actually be from the 1990 model - ABS axles are a good example. As for relays under the seat, two are the diode type, 30A for main EFI power and Fuel pump, there is no part number as such...

Sounds like, sort of, good news...ish maybe? 60psi priming is good. I'm not sure that with the engine running you would see the fuel pressure drop because the pump runs continuously when the engine runs so I wouldn't worry about it. If it was a fuel starvation issue I'm pretty sure you would...

Checking sills for rust... on a Land Rover..... I'm shocked! Thanks for the tip about the clips, not seen that one. I know about oil changes too. As soon as I can I will pop the timing belt cover off to check the belt and to see if the oil pump/timing cover has been changed. FBH works, no...

Well, I've done it now for sure. I've gone a bought a D3 as if keeping my tatty old RRC wasn't enough! I'll be selling that soon, will be sad to see it go but look forward to getting to know the D3. I've just ordered a Gap iiD, I just know I'll need it sooner or later. I don't come in here...

Compression looks suspiciously down on 1 & 2 and compared to the highest readings, there is more than 10% variation but importantly, the same variation is seen between adjacent pots (3&4) but to add to the confusion, the pots you're not happy with (3&4) show very healthy compression. I think you...

Mmmmmm....... could it be that in reality you're chasing perfection and these beasts don't do perfect? I also wonder if after the top hat liners were done, were the pistons changed? Could it be the case that pots 3 & 4 need oversize rings? or maybe 3 & 4 are good and it's the others that need...

I was just outside messing about (as you do) and I thought I would pop a vacuum gauge on and check where mine sits at idle with a warm engine. I get 14" Hg too, so that says your engine is OK.

Hi Rusty, glad to hear you haven't given up on it just yet! I feel your pain, I've been there too many times over the years I've owned and abused my RRC. I think we share many of the same experiences with rust repairs and mechanical maintenance. Chin up, keep at it. Anyway, I was interested in...

Hi Rusty, I know exactly what you mean about body repairs. About 10 years ago repair panels etc were very hard to get. I remember cutting out and repairing the wheel tubs, now you can just buy them. Same for footwells, A,B and C pillar bottoms, outer wheel arches etc. Still nobody does a boot...

Thanks Rusty! I came up with the idea after the usual swearing and cursing. What I used to do was jam a bar under the A/C compressor mount so that it held on the groove in the balancer then went at it but sometimes it would slip. I looked at it and thought about it for a while then came up with...

Crank holding tool was a bit of gorilla engineering. See attached photos. Bolts on to the two lower bolts on the timing cover and engages the big notch in the crank pulley damper. IMG 3 should give you an idea; this is the 4.2 out of my own LSE. I started stripping the car for rust repair and...

I know you know the mantra - don't quit!! The only thought I had reading through your last post : Have you checked the vac advance on the dizzy and also the throttle pot. If vac advance has a split diaphragm there is the opportunity for air leak but also, throttle behaviour can be affected. Same...

Couldn't find a post with cold compression test readings. Guess I'm getting old!! Anyway, fwiw, I did write them down and saw the following results (COLD) 1: 160psi 2:165 3: 160psi 4: 160psi 5: 170psi 6: 160psi 7: 160psi 8: 160psi. Warm compression figures for 3.9 are supposed to be...

Blimey Rusty, you've had at it big style!!! Didn't we do a troubleshoot a couple of years back for a mystery mid range misfire?? Maybe some of that could help? From what you say, I can't see you've missed anything. I'm not sure/convinced it would be cam or valves based on the steady vacuum...

I know what you mean about vacuum. I tried looking and found no tangible information. Mine pulls about 15" Hg at idle with the H180 cam and 10 degrees of ignition advance, 4 branch headers and straight through cherry bomb silencers. The needle is nice and steady so all is good. The stable needle...