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In the case of military tyres, and those shown in your picture, that might hold true, but once again the tread pattern shown is more or less a variation on the tractor tyre tread. Another factor which might or might not have some influence would be that the tyres on a DUKW would probably be...

Somebody mentioned reducing the pressures on snow or mud. That's not advisable because of what happens to the tyre at the bit that really matters, the bit in contact with the ground. The tread can start to go concave and the tread pattern can close up thereby reducing the efficiency of the tyre...

And what are those "Unpleasant consumables"? Oh, yeah, now I remember ....... the crankshaft!

There are two holes about 3/4 inch diameter above the headlight units, marked "A" and "B". If you look down in those holes you'll see a toothed wheel which you can turn by sort of "flicking" them around with a flat blade screwdriver. I can't remember which hole does what:-

As both the other guys have said, the ACE system can produce pressures of 2000 psi. At those sorts of pressures a copper pipe might hold if the wall is thick enough, but I can't see a standard plumbing type compression fitting being able to hold. It's because of the high pressures involved that...

As the instructions say in the last paragraph, if the display shows "WAIT" then DO NOT SWITCH OFF, do as you're told and wait until the word "CODE" reappears.

This from the D2 RAVE:- It looks like you've fallen foul of the extending delay which happens when you input a wrong code.

+1 for ride height sensors If you intend keeping the Disco, add a compatible code reader to your Christmas list; Nanocom, Hawkeye, Lynx or Foxwell N510

I can't comment on your immobiliser trouble, but take a look at the attachement on the Alarm system in @neilly's excellent post here:- https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/ However regarding the ABS, hill descent lights etc. use your Nanocom to view the fault...

One problem with that particular part is that almost all those in the breaker's yards have been damaged in exactly the same way.

I did mine at RAF Chivenor. I was an officer with the Air Cadets at the time and I had to take a lightweight ragtop series out on public roads, so that meant a permit evaluation (another driving test) first. I still wasn't allowed to drive on the airfield, that was yet another test.

Full licence since 1966. Various "company driving tests" and RAF driving permit since then.

If you're doing any work on an aluminium engine or diecast sh1tite parts, a Helicoil kit or similar is almost essential. I got one like this some time back:-...

Older car batteries had individual caps on each cell so they were able to vent through them. Modern "sealed for life" batteries will have a vent on them usually somewhere at the top of one or more sides. If you ever buy a new battery the safety instruction sheet will tell you to remove the...

It's not very much at all, if I remember right it's about 9 lb.ft. Just do them up tight with an allen key, it's so little force as not to matter that much.

A complete Helicoil kit will contain the correct size drill bit to clean up the hole, a tap to run in the correct size thread, a device to"pull" the Helicoil into the hole; the little "tang" must be at the bottom so that the screwing effort is from the bottom and another device to fit into the...

Seeing as you're in there anyway, yes I would do the mod. Even if it appears that the svs is working now, there's no telling whether or not it'll raise it's ugly head again. The mod won't adversely affect the operation of the system. The brown wires on the svs plate are cut and the two pin...

Don't know too much about the series 3 engine, but the only advice I can offer is a) pre-mix your water/anti-freeze, the usual mix is 50/50 and b) on older engines I used to fill the system to the recommended level and then with the engine off and the radiator cap removed reach down to the...

Yeah, thanks @sierrafery mate, that's what I was afraid of, it would be the hub rather than just the sensor. That's the "table of faults" which I had already seen when I referenced "some of your earlier posts". For those of you with access to the RAVE wiring diagrams, the error in the "brake...

The short range of the fob to the RF receiver has in many cases in the past been due to a poor earth at the receiver. The securing bolt, if that is the model that you have isn't just a physical mount but it's also an earth connection. The condition must be spotless, even if it works for the...