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Have you got your hearing aid in?

If its got a very tidy chassis, id say up to £5k depending on condition of the body, interior and for example, if its never towed and has 1 previous owner. If its rough on the body and interior, with a scabby chassis, £2.5k. I think modifications often point to it being an off roader, which...

Thats a very good setup and will work even better with TC as it helps the diffs transfer drive.

As Fery says you need to do some diagnostics but if you have a mate with a D2, swopping the ACE transducers over is a 10 min job to test.

Grabber AT3s on one of my work Dmaxs are great. Very refined on road and wear, if like the AT2 will be excellent. Off road they have been fine on sand and farm tracks, no issues.

Transducer can cause this if it’s knackered. Get hold of a known working one to test. I bought a new one when i had this issue and it solved it.

The 3 door is the one to have, but any D1 with the older dash layout similar to the RRC, is a modern classic. V8 id say is rare so definitely one to keep and look after

Yes new calipers is the way forwards, thats what ive always done when sticking and you know it will be sorted.

Suggest your RF unit has gone, in roof next to rear sunroof. Id fix that drain if i were you, as im not convinced d2s like their electrical system being messed with unnecessarily. My RF unit went after disconnecting the battery. Best to fix any issues and keep it all in good order.

Definitely take the scuttle off. Bonnet is easy to unbolt then slide it forwards a foot or so in the closed position. Unbolt wipers and take plastic cover off. Go mental on the sikaflex.

Take the top plate off, not a big job. May be the linkage has seized in neutral. Should be easy to see with top plate off in the cab

You could take the nose section off the old box to retain the hi lo switch, but youd have to use the shim from the other nose to retain bearing clearance.

Make sure you use NAK oil seals on the driveshafts.

Yes post it off to one of the reputable tuners and it will be fine.

Injectors will need coding. Why do you need a new BCU?

No sorry, just the squeaking. This vibration thing is common it seems, but i would guess its a variety of things.

Try a Contitech belt first before bothering with the pulley.

Flywheel potentially, even if its an SMF thats been put in as they obviously aren’t factory fit on a Td5. Other one is centrifugal filter which if off balance, could cause vibrations. But mine vibrates at 2k and so do many others. Its not severe but just perceptible if you are looking for it...

What oil are you running? ATF or MTF94? If ATF try it on the MTF as it can improve gear selection.

Removing the cooler is quite a bit more work so most just plug each end and leave the coolant pipework in place.