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No the ACE system is worth keeping if you can. I wouldn’t be evangelical about it, but it deserves some love as it makes for a better drive for sure.

Try replacing your coolant temp sensor or checking the wiring.

You can skim it yourself. You just need a perfect flat surface which is either a new piece of MDF, or a kitchen worktop offcut. Glue some abrasive paper down, oil it up and re surface the manifold checking with a metal ruler until flat. Ive used this technique on chainsaw crankcase spacers and...

Id buy a used block. Facelift has different valves so make sure it matches.

£650 for both sides, new ball joints supplied and fitted. My local indy quoted that to me.

Were the injector seals genuine? Have you checked your fuel filter head?

For sure a remap improves any standard Td5. Talk to Empire, Td5 Reborn, Storm, Alive etc… and see who can provide what you want. Most now offer switchable maps if you want something sensible and something less sensible

Last beam axle Disco and cheapest beam axle land rover. Because 90/110 have gone mad and D1s all dissolved, us unwashed have one choice for a proper landy really, so there is lots of competition for the good ones. Also so many have rotted or been abused in pay and play sites, again tidy ones do...

Well thats 15 mins of my life i wont get back. Landyzone has gone soft it took 9 pages before any abuse!

Get codes read then report back.

P38 wheels also fit so have a look there. L322 and D3 wheels can fit, as long as you fit a spacer as they have a larger hub. Same stud pattern though. Lots of original D2 wheels about though, 7” and 8” width.

I have Dixons ones, they are great but powdercoat is not the best. Otherwise i would recommend them.

Don’t forget brake calipers stick on a lot of vehicles, so worth checking. Also check for diesel leaks at the filter end and around. Unlikely i know. I get 19mpg on an auto with lots of stuff like winch, snorkel, full rack, full boot, 245/75 MTs. So something is amiss for sure.

Check the fuel pump pressure at the FPR with an oil pressure gauge. Should be 4 bar ish. Air filter clean?

If you look up buster bus’ how to guides on here, i think this is on there. Although i dont know how easy that bearing will come out without a good bit of muscle.

No that engages the dog clutch which is behind the nose section with the bearing, so shouldn’t affect it. Ive not done this on the vehicle so cant really help too much sorry.

Is it on the bench? If so remove the front output housing and its pretty straightforward. You can knock it all out from behind then. Big circlip on the bearing needs beefy pliers. Heat the housing in boiling water and freeze the bearing and it will slide back in with a tap.

On a Td5 you may want to check the crank sensor and wiring.

D2? You need to read the codes with a nanocom or hawkey etc… and report to the Discovery forum. Include a bit more info.

Im putting Delphi ones in this year. Ive always found their stuff to be good, but ive no experience yet on the D2. I do very low mileage though and the car has an easy life.