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I delivered into workshop on evening of 14th On 16th delivered the new Yuasa battery as they were complaining the old Varta Blue "was a little low". In reality, there was a load stuck on (might be due to steering colum solenoid still stuck in circuit but I don't know what load's presented when...

You hadn't but it's a very worthwhile link. I've sent it, together with the two-page article up to the workshop At the moment am waiting back on some sort of reply -- to confirm whether the XYZ Switch is faulty (expect not as gear changes are being indicated) Or from the steering column...

To the Hall of Doom (mechanics) only to be told: "We've removed steering cowl and removed plug and shorted pins 1 - 7. That allows the key to turn into position 1 that brings up the dash. But the start mode is still inhibited, engine just won't turn. Also the steering lock seems not to be...

Recovered with the rustling of neighbours' lace and scowles. Helpful yells of: "Are you going to be long?" and "I've got deliveries to make, can't you move over?" -- y'get the picture. Just in time for the early evening rush hour that snarls up the A2 from Blackwall Tunnel exit to nearly...

There's still two little gremlins spoiling the Ignition Barrel pin stuck theory. (a) The Central Locking doesn't operate remotely (b) There's still a voltage drop at battery terminals between disconnected and connected (but with door open) Just waiting on the recovery truck now

I've asked two indie workshops (15 and 45 miles away) to quote for change out of Ignition Switch assembly. Both have the full diagnostic set. So hopefully I should be back and running this time next week. And if one or the other can't get replacement YXB000080 then to remove the locking pin of...

Just been out to check whether holding the key against the 10º stop for 30 secs then back to 0º then forward again helps (as per that thread in Range Rovers.net) It does not. On the plus side on the steering column is that the wheel does free up. But only until the next lock position --...

Answering myself it would appear that I was doing key retraining but (then just two days ago) not knowing the difference between 10º and position 1 must've already been in position 1 and the "fault" was just starting to show itself. Otherwise retraining would not have occured.

This is a useful thread especially the post #14 who also adds that the system had been substantially modified in operation to avoid what I'm experiencing. Seems posts go back to at least six years or more about this. So either my L322's been fortunate, or this fault has been fixed / fudged in...

That's clear. In other words, there should not ever have been a result of lost codes occuring simply by changing battery. Or by changing the cells in the keys. But those of us that have worked with early EEPROMS know that's quite possible -- external RF fields, intermittent supply volts...

The three clicks I hear coming from somewhere's behind the dashboard I assume is steering lock. Although the steering wheel doesn't remain unlocked. In fact, just tried moving steering to the next steering lock position and although I could feel the physical lock engage the steering wheel did...

Yes, I saw your video, listened to your LBC commentary and will read what's inside Rave. Whether that will provide me with the familiarity that you guyz in here have already been kindly offering is another matter altogether. For example I doubt whether the Fuse 18 procedure would be there...

I'll go and try that now. Using the "good" key inserted into the door lock, I unlocked all locks by turning twice, then locked by turning once but holding the key against the sprung lock position. The front two windows went up :rolleyes: Even more progress :) I think I need a truth table

I'm not completely sure how the Central Locking is meant to "work" on these cars as I'm not familiar with all their functions. But... I can open the drivers' door with one key turn, and open all locks (including the tailgate) with two turns. Both turn off the flashing red LED at the bottom...

I can handle it. Least I don't drive around in a squashed sardine can :p Meantime, back at the real RR funny farm (where life is beautiful all the time and I'll be happy to see those nice young men in their clean white coats...) have been looking at IGN locks. Believe mine's YXB000080 £54.58...

I hope that's sweet buttered popcorn? I hate porridge with salt on it... Just to add that a passer by (in an Evoque) just stopped to yell: "you have to turn the key twice to unlock all the doors at once"! And then drove off. So I can actually get into the load space now without making a rear...

So found Fuse 18, removed it, did dance to the rain gods around RR, noted rustling of the lace in neighbours' windows, replaced fuse -- was still in neutral and... er... still 10º max turn. Which is unfortunate...

Seems from your pic I haven't got an FBH -- one less thing to worry about!

Right, I now know the difference -- the key's just going to 10º and no further When I opened up the key that didn't work to see what battery it was (CR2016) I didn't see see any small plastic piece in the key that was loose. I'll open it up again to check. -- no nothing. There is a plastic...

Yes, just done that this morning. The -ve could've been tighter IMO That's progress! That lever allowed me to move the gear lever into Neutral. So at least I can use an ordinary low loader without the need for those plastic shoes to slide the car about. Grateful for that ;) Yes, and...