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Looks like a standard distributor with an aftermarket conversion to replace the points with an electronic pickup. If you pull the rotor arm off, the grey bit below will probably just pull off -revealing the shaft with the lobe on it. The other bit should just unscrew and a new set of points and...

I have adjusted my bonnet because it was a bit out of line and tight to pull the release catch. Also fitted new hinge bushes at the same time. It will be best to just assemble and adjust when everything else is done - before fitting grill.

It hooks on the slider and pokes up the hole halfway along square cutout.

Apart from advisories on steering box oil leak, seat belt damage and brake pedal rubber worn a couple of years ago, mot has been passed. Mileage looks about right on mot check as well. Mot expires November.

Is that a Defender axle? It looks like it has the groove to hold the rubber caps on?

That looks pretty original apart from the cigarette lighter socket and the hazard warning lights. There are a few bits that aren’t ideal with poor covers on wires, but apart from tidying them up I would leave that bunch if everything is working. To get at the speedo cable you need to remove the...

Ref “A” These square warning lights normally have the function illuminated. If you look closely you can normally see the wording. Common warning lights are: Choke - on petrol engines only Park Brake - obviously handbrake warning light Brake - this is only if it has a dual circuit braking system...

Some on here: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/

Here is a picture of offset - all based on centre line of wheel.

My thoughts: Only one cylinder sucks at a time, so having a higher volume of high pressure air (turbocharged pressure) close to the inlet valve is probably a benefit. So the two pipes and larger bore should in theory be a benefit - but just because of the volume increase. 💁

Just for info: That 4 door hi-cap bed is shorter than a 2 door 110 hi-cap bed.

I am interested in the tyre, will message you.

look on the plus side, the road ahead is normally clear!

You don’t need anything sticky on the inside between the glass and trim. The original part used - a thin rubber filler strip - is still available. Part number: 78159. pa blanchards have it.

I used a butyl glazing tape. I can't find the actual one I used but it something like this...

The phone number is not a canvey number and it doesn’t match the number if you search acw canvey. so expect it is a scam.

Having fitted screens in Cortina, Escort, Fiestas, Jensen, Landies and kit cars, the fitting of a Fiesta one that I kept for a few years rotted severely and this was the last time I used washing up liquid. The Jensen I kept for probably 30 years and this never had corrosion around the screen...

Never use washing up liquid to fit windscreen seals. it has salt in it to soften the water to give more bubbles. salt will corrode the frame behind the rubber. so, don’t use it! my best suggestion is on a warm day use something like lanoguard or waxoyl. both say they don’t rot rubber. or you...

You could get one of these: note the bump in the roof - that is the emergency exit. these can wade to half way up the windscreen. But remember, after these wade they get a full hose down and new oils/fluids in everything. also if they have ever been taken apart they will need resealing properly.

Paintman Panels do the door tops, choice of parts or fully assembled.