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I'm not quite sure how all the dirt gets in there. A couple of months after buying mine I decided to tackle the persistent leak from around the pump when the tank was full. It turned out that the retaining ring had been cross threaded so was on at a funny angle and was not pressing the seal down...

I particularly like that piece of precision woodworking around the pipe. There's a future Sheraton or Chippendale at work there for sure. At least the person doing the plumbing appears to have used a pipe bender rather than doing it over his knee and creasing it.

Yes, it's worth having fan spanners for the TD5. It makes lots of things easier if you can get the fan off, like changing the fan belt. Whilst it's possible to prize the idler pulley back far enough with a lever, it's easier to put a socket on the pulley nut and flex it away from the engine to...

It's hard to bend the arm accidentally as they're made out of very stiff wire in my experience and you've really got to put some effort in to bend them. If it's arm bending that has taken place, it sounds like the float has bent upwards compared to where it was before, so at a high level it...

Yes, it does the alternator, power steering, water pump fan and air conditioning if you have it. It may be the bearings on one of the pulleys that's getting noisy. There's a lot of things that can clunk in a Land Rover transmission. As well as the Rear ball joint I find the splined joints...

I watched the man change the windscreen on my Land Rover and there were a few things I noticed that made it easier. First he put the rubber onto the glass first, before attempting to get the whole thing into the metal frame. He had a spray bottle of soap for lubrication, which he applied...

I seldom bother with the rear washer, wiper or heated screen on mine. When I first got the vehicle 12 years ago I used the heated screen to demist the rear window - a couple of the bars seemed to be working but not all of them. I just use the side mirrors for everything now. I check the washer...

How are you getting the ends off all those branches @Stone56 ? Some of them look a bit thin to climb on or rest a ladder against. Pole pruner?

I don't know about 'shearing off', but power steering pumps do go wrong occasionally. They seem more vulnerable than the steering boxes themselves in that respect. It's easiest to fit a new one - I changed mine over a few years ago when the steering became very stiff and it made a big...

There's a lot of stuff on the LR workshop website nowadays, but I've found the Land Rover parts catalogue invaluable. Indeed, I find the diagrams in there (although a bit small) more useful than a manual in working out how things come apart and go back together again. If it doesn't look like...

You might want to space the wires away from the body of the starter a little way, so they don't short out on the casing, but I'm sure that on mine you can take all the nuts off that post terminal and it doesn't come loose, so do whatever fits best.

Yup, there's a brown wire from the alternator and a wire from the battery that go on the same terminal, plus there's a small wire (red inthe picture above) that has a spade terminal with a plastic cover on which is the one that engages the solenoid. As above, I think there's too many nuts on...

I think the changeover point for the front brakes was 1993. Prior to that the 110 had 46mm pistons and the 90 had 41mm. Afterwards, everything got the 46mm pistons.

Yes, it'll be getting dark now. I'd leave it 'til tomorrow if I were you.

I'd better wish you a happy birthday before it's too late and we'll have to wait 'til next year. No, I thought I'd be quick, so hadn't planned to do anything special with the window. I will however be using a few bits of wood in a day or two's time to replace some bits of plaster moulding...

My passenger door latch has been sticking in the locked position again lately, and it's not been possible to lubricate my way out of the problem. Accordingly, I ordered a new mechanism and it came today. Door trim off, and it'll go in in a matter of minutes I thought. No such luck. I discovered...

I tend to find that speed-specific vibrations occur when my propshaft universal joints are wearing out. If you can detect any slack when you wobble them this may be the problem. Whilst greasing things is a good idea generally, by the time they start getting slack, it's time for new ones. There...

If my wheels aren't gripping when I try to slow down I pump the pedal. It suffices to bring me to a stop on icy slopes where everybody else's cars are behaving like sledges with all the wheels locked.

If there are vibrations at a specific speed, don't forget the propshaft joints. I can tell when mine need doing because I get vibration at about 50 mph, for example.

I wish you lived as bit nearer - I'd make you come out with me and do stuff. Drive my digger, visit vintage car shows, that sort of thing. It's not formal 'therapy', but there's lots of evidence that pleasurable activity in company with others makes a difference to mood.