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Yes, I was going to say that the wiring diagrams on LRWorkshop.com are very handy. I usually print the relevant page out and take it out with me to work on the car, even though I possess an official electrical manual. But @dag019 beat me to it. And @mystery of course is indefatigable in his...

When I did mine, I too discovered that a socket wouldn't go on the nut. However, if you jack the chassis up and let the axle drop it's possible to get a ring spanner on it. I think the axles vary a bit in terms of exactly where the fitting for the centre ball joint is welded on. It can be a lot...

So have you bought one?

The one I was talking about is between the servo and the master cylinder. As above, if you loosen the master cylinder and gently bend it away from the servo, there's enough flex in the pipes to let you see the push rod. To adjust it easily you might need to wedge the brake pedal down so it...

Sounds like you've got a few more spares than you bargained for, but they were very reasonably priced. You'll be needing a new shed at this rate.

I've not got my Roamerdrive fitted at the moment. It's in the shed awaiting a moment when I can dismantle it and see what's wrong. Throughout the time I was using it, it tended to get the transfer box very hot - so much so that I made an oil cooler device for it that switched on...

Let us know what you find. I've got some peculiar symptoms on the Honda engine on my welder generator. It'll start fairly easily but then stop after a few seconds. This happens about five times and then it will run fine and I can get some welding done. It feels a bit like fuel starvation, yet...

Found some pictures on the internet. The early style ones look like this: And the later ones look like this: I suppose another giveaway is that the early ones are drilled to accept the screws that hold a brake drum on (if they're intended for the back, at least) and the later ones are...

Yes, when they bind, especially when it's just on the point of being too tight, they don't do so evenly. In my case it was mostly the rear ones that were dragging and getting hot. Have a look at that push rod I mentioned above and wind it in a few turns so it's a little shorter and see if you...

Err. . . . I'm afraid I don't have any examples to hand, so I'm running on memory here. I've had a look in my parts catalogue with a magnifying glass, because the diagrams, although very small, are often a rich fund of information about the shape of parts or the order or orientation in which...

Ah, that sounds like something else that happened to me. The first time I rebuilt my brakes I was being a bit too ambitious in adjusting the push rod that activates the master cylinder. I was trying to get the bite point a bit higher up the pedal travel. I arrived at a point where the brakes...

I believe the changeover point was in 1994. The older, wider ones have a more sticky-out 'nose' where the drive flange fits.

Definitely from the front of the engine? I've had a mysterious squeak or squeal under load that eventually turned out to be the drum handbrake. It was caused, I think, by the friction material separating slightly from the metal part of the shoes. Eventually it was quieted by putting on new...

Sometimes new brake pads are a little generously proportioned compared to the space available between the disc and calliper. I've resorted to sanding a bit off EBC Greenstuff pads in the past to get them to fit in the past. Is that the problem? Or are the pistons coming out and not going back in?

If you're a bit hesitant about rebuilding a gearbox, the Land Rover transfer box is a good one to start on because it's a fairly simple offset 2 speed box and the parts are reasonably easy to get. I might do mine again this summer because it's around eight years since I had it apart and I think...

The other thing to consider is that Ashcrofts offer the gearwheels that go inside in a variety of ratios, to suit every purpose. As well as sets of bearings and gaskets. So assuming your case is OK , you could change the gears and bearings inside and have the equivalent of a new box in the ratio...

Yes, if the clutch plates aren't fully separating and the engine is still trying to twist the gearbox input shaft. Sometimes this can result from faulty master and slave cylinders too. Have a fiddle with the adjuster nuts where the upper part of the clutch pedal joins the master cylinder...

The wiring looms on TD5s deteriorate. The metal composition in the wires is rather stiff and brittle and the insulation can break up too. Especially where they're housed in those corrugated plastic tubes that Land Rover used to 'protect' them. So there may be a wiring loom fault. If you don't...

The casing looks very like my R380, but maybe it's an LT77. My bellhousing is different as I've got a TD5, but you're probably right. Even so, if there's any torque getting through, they can be reluctant to shift.

That looks like an R380 gearbox. They're very reluctant to go into gear if there's any torque getting through from the engine at all. This is good, inasmuch as it helps to stop you grinding the gears. So before taking the gearbox off the engine again it might be worth trying a little adjustment...