Search results

That would do it, at the injector it should be 4 bar ( closer to 60 psi), you can take out the fuel temperature sender on the pressure regulator and connect a gauge in there, somtimes they show 4 bar but as soon as the engine is demanding more fuel then the pump cant cope and pressure falls. 4...

The injector codes are used by the ECU to fine tune the system, but should not cause your problem, I think you have to look elsewhere. How was it before the new injectors? Is the fuel pump noisy? Lack of fuel pressure may be one possible cause, you might look for some posts on here about...

14 mm die nut should clean that up, be sure you get the right pitch. Put some grease on and then work the die down slowly half a turn then back until you get it to the end. Looking at the picture worst bit will be starting it take your time.

Mine is definitely blanked like that and runs fine. I looked in the EGR valve when it was off and it just opens up a poppet type valve which allows the exhaust gas into the air intake stream, if it shut down the air intake when it operated then you would feed pure exhaust gas into the inlet...

Any progress?

I put the vacuum pipes back, blanking then is fine if you do it very carefully, remember that the braking system uses the same system and if your blanking fails it will affect braking. Taking that into consideration I put it "as built ". Which would avoid any difficult questions in the event of...

You can find them on e bay, or if you have the facilities knock one up it's quite a simple thing, be sure to use 3 or 4 mm steel, I put a thin one in first time and it burned throug, the studs in the manifold are notorious for shearing but you can mount the blank on the inlet to the exhaust gas...

UOTE="Andy Warren, post: 5148031, member: 138307"]Thanks for that. I hoping to get it on the road in a couple of weeks so once I'm happy with the way it runs I'll probably blank the EGR anyway as the inlet manifold is clean & I want to keep it that way. It's a good idea, I took mine out, but...

Another vote for the halfords tool kits, the Pro ones have a lifetime guarantee (keep the receipts safe) I bought the big one just to have everything in one place next to you when working, saves rummaging through drawer

I don't know that one, sounds like it's looking at the sat nav CD. Remember the TD5 is not a standard system and ordinary readers give very strange readings, the Nanocom is the only one I know that can read it, when you use it it can monitor air flow, pressure and temperature live and graph the...

It may be that the turbo is not doing its job, I made a temporary rig with plastic pipe and a pressure gauge and then set up the turbo actuator by test driving and adjusting the connection rod until it seemed best, if the pressure goes too high it will go into limp mode. The best place to read...

It's not the map sensor its just that the engine revving unloaded does not drive the turbo charger hard enough to make much pressure. No matter how you rev it you will be lucky to see more than a few psi. I teed into the actuator control pipe and put a gauge on the dash, you will hardly see it...

Are you testing this with the vehicle stationary? The turbo will not make anything like the pressure needed to activate the actuator unless you are loading the engine, you can tee into the actuator pipe and fit a pressure gauge and it will barely flicker, but take it out and flog it up a hill...

I don't think there are big differences between the later engines. Re engine management you should be able to re program the ECU with the correct 15p map using a nanocom. I bet @sierrafery would know

Mine did that last year, it was the wheel bearing, changed both and it went off. But the front wheel drive has been known to fail.

My 2001 defender 90 had a cat fitted.

Not a full change annually, just the 3 ltrs.

To do a full change you need to make up a pipe and drain the old stuff out with the engine ticking over, at the same time you have to try and put in oil at approximately the same rate as it is coming out, that's why many people do the simpler partial change, if its done annually then the oil...

It's a complicated procedure to change all of it some people just drop a couple of ltrs and then drop a couple more later to gradually change it. Take a look here lots of info and the full change refill and check level can be found described on the same site ...

Worse than that, a friend had to have a new engine on warranty and the following year he wanted rid of it, he agreed a part exchange with the LR dealer, but when they checked and found the engine was a new one they cut the trade in value by about 2K, .............