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Haven't seen that myself, though I tend to add a voluntary up to a what I think is a reasonable amount, basically so the excess covers the amount I wouldn't bother claiming for under anyway. Helps bring my premium down a fair bit and doesn't affect things like windscreens etc either. The tax on...

Had the instrument cluster off for the millionth time, think I've found/sorted an intermittent ignition fault with a handful of re-crimped connections and some fettling of spade connectors on the ignition switch. Think its more crimps and heat shrink than cabling now :confused:, issue hasn't...

Fuel stop solenoid, check the cable/connection on it.

Every. Bloody. Time.

Logically, yes but by the time you get up to 3rd/4th/5th you've already pumped the clutch a few times in a short period of time. Try it when you're pulling up to a roundabout or junction etc. and see if it goes into 2nd or 1st easier.

Is your biting point getting very low (lazy clutch slave)? Try giving the clutch a few pumps in neutral while changing, a bit like double de-clutching but with out the revving part. May also just be a bit of subtle wrist action needed to get into those gears rather than going straight in.

It'll make sense when "that one bolt" just won't budge...

knuckles are over rated anyway. Enjoy:D

To hold the shock absorber for the lower nuts, else I have a set of nut splitters (no point faffing about with seized nylocs as they should be replaced anyway) Thought so, glad I asked :)

So I need to replace one of my rear shock absorbers (its leaking a lot), is it worth doing both at the same time or should I replace as a pair? Also, do I need to be wary of the length of the new parts to allow for the 2" lift? From searching already. I know I'll likely need to WD40 the fook...

Still got these? Am I right in thinking these will fit an LR90?

Steering wheel goes bananas and feels like the doors are about to fall off, sometimes described as like driving a shopping trolley. Anything loose in your suspension or steering connections can cause it to some extent.

Get a refurb'd box, you just have to send them your old box back in exchange (just make sure its clean). When mine went the wobble sheared the tie rod as well...

2 months later, found to time to look at this again and start fixing (connected the isolator up a few weeks ago) Successfully, eventually, got the lower dash off and replaced the switch side of the RH side light wiring and wiring to the chassis harness interconnect! Decided to investigate the...

Door switch for the interior light? Does the light still come on if you only open that door?

Finally found time to look at this in more detail so I can fix it and get my wagon back on the road. After a couple hours poking about with the multimeter it turns out the tail/side lights have been wired incorrectly when the fuse box was converted (well, half of it) by a previous owner...

Look at it like 2 seperate circuits join by the relay, To the left of the relay is one circuit (low load) which is the control circuit for the relay. To the right of the relay is the other circuit (high load) which is what you are trying to power/control (such as spot lights etc) Both circuits...

IIlluminated rocker switches sort of have standardised pin outs 1 : not used 2 : +V DC 3 : Accessory 4 : not used 5 : not used 6 : Switch Illumination 7 : GND 8 : GND

Is it an illuminated rocker switch? Looks like the power rail for the switch light/LED

You can get a cross member as a part to do a straight replacement, I didn't think mine was that rotten until the old came off and could have a proper look (the steel had de-laminated across most of it) If you're planning to tow/recover etc then its worth replacing, also if you have a tow bar...