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Ah, I see... So 2 bits of box section that fit inside each other, smaller one with the plate welded to it (can butcher my old towbar for that) - just need the larger box section welded to the chassis, appropriate holes drilled and one of those pins... Any idea where I could get some suitable...

Hmmm.... Trying to do this at min expense, using the original towbar I already have if possible... Was wondering if maybe I could just drill the bolts with a hole at the end to take a strong spring pin, so I could pop em off quick if needs be... Obviously I'd need to drill or cut 2 holes in the...

Is it possible to replace the bolts on the 'standard' Disco 1 towbar with some kind of quick-release pins? I want to be able to tow with it, but not have the rigmarole of pulling the bumper off and spending an hour undoing big bolts every time I want to go playing and not have a big plow stuck...

You can't wire it to RCAs as they are unbalanced and far too high an impedance. You can get away with it, just, for the sub because the common mode noise that the setup is designed to defeat doesn't seem to effect frequencies at which the sub operates. The door amps or DSP amp require a...

Bad metal cut out: Ready for weldage... Which I shall be attempting later today...

They all vibrate, to one degree or another, and nobody has quite figured out why yet. See this thread: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-dse-auto-idle-vibration-123907.html ...and many more like it...

Thanks Kev. Yeah, I did look at Rimmer Bros, but without pics I'm not sure what exactly is what. I might just go with rubber, since it's the sections that sit on top of the chassis - not too much concern about potential damage off-road.

Finally got the boot floor out today... What an utter b****rd it was!!! Tried drilling out all the spot welds - half of them still wouldn't let go, and found I'd missed quite a few in areas that looked like they'd rusted through, but had clean metal underneath still holding on tight... Top tips...

There are 3. The tweeters are obvious, then there are mids which I believe are 4" and the woofers I think are 6.5". Best bet is to remove the door card and take them out, then take them with you when you go to purchase your new ones, as you'll need to make sure the screw holes line up! Bear in...

I know you have to disconnect the battery to weld, but I've also seen disconnection of the alternator advocated... Is this needed... Or even just prudent? I've fried a voltage regulator before, in the dim and distant past... But that was 'cos I was stoopid and forgot to disconnect even the...

'Cos the scaff tube may be coming my way for 'free' ;)

So... wear a mask under me welding helmet then? Gonna have this issue anyhow, as I've bought boot floor sides from YRM... which are Zintek panels... big fan in the back doorway to aid ventilation, methinks...

I had an idea... I know where I can get hold of some scaffolding poles, and thought I might have a go at fabricating my own HD bumpers... Question is, are they up to the job? I belive they're 2" OD (standard scaffolding size?) and the plan would be to weld 2 together, one on top of the other...

Pin 7 in an 8-pin ISO power plug is the 'switched' +12v, and usually has a RED wire in an ISO harness. It is WHITE/PINK in the P38 harness. Pin 4 is the permanent +12v. YELLOW in an ISO harness, Purple in the P38's. If your wiring has an adaptor on it, trace it back to the original vehicle...

Tried that route myself, John, a few months ago - rang a couple of Saab dealers who said the entire company no longer had any stock!!

Ok... FAIL #1... Having blunted one cobalt spot-weld bit, I started with a fresh one... Only this time decided to lube the tip with a bit of machine oil to aid cutting and longevity... Whereas each previous spot weld I'd drilled out took a good 10 - 15 secs to get through, the first one I...

Ok... first off, this is where the pressure switch is: And this is the ABS pump relay: (mine is a diesel, and there are some slight differences in the V8 fusebox, I think, although I believe the relevant relay is in the same place... This is the relay removed, indicating the...

The guy in Kendal is incorrect as to the location of the pressure switch. I've just taken some pics to help you out - gimme 10 mins to label them and I'll post them up.

Emmotts will supply you one for around £40. It's the big green thing with the plug attached to it on the left side of the pump. To remove it, undo the pump mounting bolts so you can move the pump for better access. It just unscrews from the pump body, but can be pretty tight to get moving -...

Would you not advocate cutting them off, Wammers, even if you intend replacing them anyway? They are a major arse-ache to remove (at least in my case they were)...